How do I adequately explain this week’s menu choices, Croque-Forestier and homemade Rosemary Potato Chips. That was more of a dilemma than turning Russet potatoes into crisps all gussied up with rosemary and flaky salt. Pete Wells, The New York Times food columnist, threw the appropriate descriptive words in my lap yesterday morning. In touting a recipe he wrote, “it’s such a festival of textures and tastes, it makes you grateful to have working teeth and a tongue in your mouth.”

Why should I search for words when he nails it?

Real chefs have sous-chefs. This week I was a real chef. Linda Stein and her husband, David, who are Floridians, bought a home here in the late Eighties when Michael and I moved to Aspen. I’ve known this woman twenty-five years and while she can, she doesn’t. Cook. That’s why it surprised me she wanted to learn to bake the highly-touted Marie-Hélène’s Apple Cake, my Dorie favorite. When I suggested she also help with this week’s recipes, she was All In. (Full Disclosure: She had no clue it would be my first-ever frying adventure.)

Ending my four-year Around My French Table adventure was a bit-of-a-heart tug. But, we cooked the book which was the goal. Erasing the accustomed French from my Fridays? Not so simple. To lick my wounds I turned to a bookcase stuffed with cookbooks I’ve never cracked. Buvette, The Pleasure of Good Food, by Jody Williams had caught my eye since receiving it (a year ago). Williams is a protégé of Italian phenom Mario Batali, who writes in her Foreword that Buvette ‘captures Jody’s pure unadulterated genius.”

Every recipe I’ve made from Buvette takes a whimsical detour from the tried-and-true. While most of you are familiar with the classic Croque-Monsieur or Croque-Madame, the Forestier is less well-known. Whether vegetarian or not, this Croque, meaning to crunch in French, can march in sync with all comers. To change the Monsieur into a Forestier, simply exchange ham for a mixture of mushrooms roasted in olive oil, salt, sage and rosemary. Yum. The recipe is at the end of my Post.

Who really has the time to make homemade potato chips anyway?

After making Buvette’s homemade Rosemary Potato Chips, I may never buy another bag. Homemade chips are, I promise you, élégant and simple to create. If you have 2 Russet potatoes and canola oil, you’re in business. Of course, I’ve never before fried anything in 3” of oil which worried Linda a lot. My kitchen is tiny. When I tossed those first potato disks into the 350-degreeF oil, I noticed Linda, All of Her, was splayed against my kitchen wall. I admit to some splashes and splatters but no serious burns.

In closing I must acknowledge this date, September 11. It will forever be a heavy-hearted day for Americans and the world. That’s why I tried to make this week’s Post light-hearted by saluting America with a dressed-up grilled cheese sandwich and a favorite (junk food) snack. God Bless America and blessing to everyone in the world who mourn loved ones lost on 9/11/01.

If you dare to try, you’ll love these recipes.

CROQUE – FORESTIER by Jody Williams, BUVETTE, the pleasure of good food

Makes 4 Sandwiches

Ingredients:

Béchamel Sauce (makes 3/4 cup)

1 1/2 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp nutmeg
3/4 c whole milk
Coarse salt

Mushroom Mix

10-12 oz mushrooms, sliced
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 tsp rosemary, minced
1/2 tsp sage, minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Sandwich Ingredients

2 Tbsp whole grain mustard (note: I used 1 Tbsp)
8 slices rustic, artisan bread, 1/2 to 3/4” wide
1 c coarsely grated Gruyère cheese
1 tsp Herbes de Provence

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat the oven to 425F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Make the mushroom mixture. Pour olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and add mushrooms with rosemary and sage. Cook until mushrooms are browned, about 5-6 min, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

3. Next, prepare the béchamel sauce. Combine the butter, flour and nutmeg in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until barely browned, about 2-3 min. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens and begins to pull away from the edges on the pan, 3-4 min. The mixture should be the consistency of thick pudding and stick to the spoon. Season with a pinch of salt and set aside.

4. Stir the mustard into the béchamel sauce and, dividing evenly, spread béchamel on one side of each slice of bread, making sure to spread the béchamel from corner to corner on each slice. Place the bread on the prepared baking sheet. Top 4 of the slices with mushrooms and some grated cheese. Put the remaining béchamel-coated bread slices, béchamel side up, on top of the mushroom/cheese mix. Top sandwiches with remaining cheese and sprinkle with Herbes de Provence. Bake sandwiches until cheese is melted and tops are starting to crisp, about 10 min. If you want the top to be more crispy brown, put under the broiler for 1 or 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

MY TIPS:

1. Gruyère cheese is a prefect melting cheese and acknowledged, with its distinctive flavoring, as ideal for baking. If you must, substitute with Comté or Beaufort.

2. Great for entertaining as a nibble, lunch, or casual supper, you can assemble a tray of croques early, refrigerate and when needed, slide into the oven.

3. Just adding chips, whether homemade or not, and cornichons makes a meal.

4. For Croque-Monsieur, exchange the mushroom mixture with ham. For Croque-Madame, place a fried egg on either version.

ROSEMARY POTATO CHIPS by by Jody Williams, BUVETTE, the pleasure of good food

Serves four

INGREDIENTS

1 teaspoon very finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon coarse salt
2 Russet potatoes, peeled
Oil, for frying (corn, peanut, vegetable, canola, or grapeseed oil all work well)

DIRECTIONS

1.In a small bowl, stir together the rosemary and the salt and set aside.

2. Using a mandoline or a very sharp knife, carefully slice the potatoes into thin rounds no more than 1/8 inch thick. Place the sliced potatoes into a bowl of cold water and let them sit for at least 20 minutes or refrigerated overnight to release some of their starch.
Drain the potatoes and dry thoroughly on paper towels.

3. Pour enough oil into a large, heavy pot so that you have at least 2 to 3 inches of oil, but make sure the oil does not fill the pot more than halfway. Set the pot over high heat and let it heat until the oil reaches 350°F on a candy thermometer. If you don’t have a thermometer, place 1 slice of potato into the oil and when bubbles form around it and it is really sizzling, you will know that your oil is hot enough for frying.

4. Carefully add a few handfuls of your dry potatoes to the oil, being careful not to crowd the pot. Fry the chips, stirring occasionally with a wooden or slotted spoon, until the potatoes are lightly browned and crisp, about 3 minutes, 1 1/2 minutes on each side. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the potatoes to a paper towel–lined plate to drain while you continue frying the potato slices in batches. Once all of the chips are fried, sprinkle them with the rosemary salt mixture and serve immediately.

My Tips:

1. I used a OXO mandoline to slice the potatoes into 1/8” discs, the perfect size.

2. It is essential to soak the starch from the potato slices for at least 20 minutes or overnight, refrigerated. It is also essential to DRY THEM THOROUGHLY with a paper towel before frying. Although this was probably not what she’d envisioned, this was Linda’s task. (Thank you, Linda.)

3. Two Russet potatoes make about 100 chips. It was plenty for us to sample and to share with The Gant’s front office staff.