This post is dedicated, with fondness, to Dr. David Yokum, who was a prominent thoracic surgeon and catfish guy.
Another french classic, Brandade de Morue translates to Salt Cod and Potato Puree and is delicious.
Being Iowa born and bred in the Fifties/Sixties meant odds are heavily weighted to a meat-and-potatoes palate. In the Corn State then there were approximately 200,000, 150-170 acre family farms. Each August at the Delaware County Fair, the 4-H kids would show off their prized livestock, compete for ribbons and eventually auction those animals off.
My neighbor raptor, a red-shouldered hawk, gets scrutinized by a visiting hummingbird.
My parents would purchase a porker and reserve a side of beef from prize-winning 4-H livestock. At our house we didn’t eat fish. Mom was a good cook and those were different times. I had no hankering for fish nor, when it became more available, was curious enough to try. Plus, Michael was a meat man.
Salted Codfish is difficult to find in some areas. I found mine at Whole Foods. It’s better to buy it boned, if possible.
Thanks to David Yokum, I fully embraced the piscine world. David and his lovely wife, Martha, lived in Arkansas but, being music aficionados, summered in Aspen. He and I bonded shortly after our moving to Colorado in the late Eighties. Seated together at a charity dinner at the historic Hotel Jerome we chit-chatted with ease.
This Great Blue Heron likes to loiter nearby where there is a good possibility of scoring food.
A waitress, carrying two heavy coffee pots, stopped at our table to offer refills. As she leaned in to pour coffee into David’s cup, the pot in her other hand leaned with her. She successfully executed a full-on “pour” down David’s neck. When I noticed and started to scream, David remained oblivious…..until that piping hot coffee began streaming down his back.
After 36 hours of cold water rinses and draining, this is what reconstituted cod looks like.
Yeah, it hurt. Yeah, it scalded his skin. And, yeah, that frightened waitress was horrified. Ever the southern gentleman, he quietly left the table, making no fuss, and tended to his surface wounds. Throughout the 2-3 minute ordeal, the only words he grumbled to me were, “And, this is a new suit!”
Pacific Harbor Seal
Friends forever! That summer we newbies received an invitation to the Yokum’s annual catfish party. Apparently a coveted invitation to receive, we were none too interested in accepting. Growing up near the muddy Mississippi River, what I knew about catfish was not appetizing. Whiskers (barbels). Bottom dwellers. Considered the garbage eaters of the fish world.
The Brandade de Morue consisting of potatoes and cod is simmered in boiling water for 25 minutes before being drained and whipped together. Seasonings and heavy cream are added before it’s all mixed and ready for 20 minutes in the oven.
What we didn’t know was our doctor friend owned a 7,500-acre farm with about 60 ponds covering 1,200 water acres, producing soybeans, rice and catfish. His catfish were farm-raised. Not farming I recognized. But, Michael and I decided to chance it. Our new friend, David, was amused.
These brown pelicans are doing a bit of grooming.
Hushpuppies, cole slaw and Arkansas farm-fried catfish. Tasty fare, not-to-be-missed. Although David and Michael are gone now, the memories built off that first encounter and the Yokum’s friendship are forever.
In France, Les Accras, salt cod fritters served with tartar sauce, are a popular happy hour snack.
After moving to Aspen and realizing its local availability, I eventually joined the fish brigade. Today I eat very little pork or beef. It’s an easy walk to the Butcher Block/City Market to buy fish. This week’s Cook the Book Friday’s recipes, Brandade de Morue and Accras (fritters) de Morue are a far swim from the Yokum’s catfish.
This solitary Long-billed Curlew is at work, searching for food.
I first sampled Brandade de Morue in Chef Marcus Samuelsson’s demo at Aspen’s Food & Wine Festival. During my immersion french studies at the Institute de Français in Villefranche-sur-Mer, it was served at Côte d’Azur bistros/brasseries. Brandade is a purée of reconstituted salted cod, potato and seasonings. It’s served very hot, browned on top, with a leafy salad and beer (my taste). Or, it’s an elegant appetizer. Or, as a snack, Accras de Morue, chilled balls of brandade, coated with fritter batter and fried.
Using my cookie scoop, I made 1-2″ balls from the brandade and then refrigerated them for 30 minutes. I made the fritter batter and dipped the chilled balls in the batter before frying them in canola oil. Like potato chips, you cannot eat just one!
Since making these recipes is a two-day process involving reconstituting the salty cod, I am not adding recipes. I relished making this, channeling the phenomenal Samuelsson, but in the future will leave it to others. If you DO want these recipes, I will gladly send them.
Cook the Book Fridays is an international group virtually making its way through David Lebovitz‘s My Paris Kitchen. To visit out site or join the group, please link here.
I’m like you Mary, I didn’t grow up with seafood but I’m loving it now. I feel like a late bloomer. This looks wonderful!
Wow – those dishes really whet my appetite! I love fish and the dishes look great. Love the birds too! Love, Judy
I love the picture of the hawk and hummingbird. The food all looks delicious. Hope all is well Mary!
Omg your Bird pictures are wonderful .
Do you wait all day to take these pix ?
Really impressive
Mary, you are a gifted storyteller. We currently have 150 pounds of salmon and halibut in our freezer from a fishing trip David made to Alaska…I wonder if this recipe can be tweaked to fit these fish.
Happy New Year! Rita
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I have never liked brandade de morue. This is a very popular dish here in Scandinavia. My mom wold buy it ready made at the Fish monger. After I made this recipe I love it. I did not give any off it to my family I took it all work and had for lunch warmed up in the microwave, it lasted me the whole week. Both your dishes look so great.
Well as you know, I DID grow up with seafood surrounding me (literally) but wasn’t a huge fan. Now, I’m learning… I loved both of these dishes (because they didn’t taste fishy, of course!).
I love your Iowa memories! So true!!! Tuna casserole was the only seafood we ate for years! And catfish??? No way! But I’d definitely go back for seconds at your house!!!
Even though we grew up in the NY area where fish was so available fresh and cheap, I really did not know much about it until I started cooking with all of the Doristas. You would be surprised that even in NJ or Pa, the fish is not fresh. Back in the day I would buy 5 lbs of shrimp fresh, clean them all and then freeze them for future needs. Cod is a different story, it is dried and available at Christmas and I always buy enough to prepare a wonderful dinner for Valentines Day that I replicate from our trip to Lisbon.
This was a great recipe and one that I am happy to learn about.
I think it was a different time. I grew up closer to the coast, but we ate only frozen fish and tuna from a can. I appreciate fresh fish now though, even though this starts with salt cod. I was happy with my double header, though we preferred the brandade, much less fuss once the fish was soaked. I’ll make it for you anytime.
The brandade de morue was wonderful, I agree! I never used to be so keen on fish either but now I love it! It is hard notto like fish after trying these recipes. Those fritters were so yummy!!!
Now I am wondering where to get salt cod! It all looks delicious and the brandade balls would make a perfect appetizer for the days where it seems like there isn’t a new appetizer in the world…
You know, I had fish growing up quite often but I rarely cook it for my own family. I told Marcel recently that I needed to revisit my once a week seafood/fish goal so that we eat even more variety. Frankly, most of the fish I’ve made in since 2008 is probably related to Dorie’s stuff in AmFT (and most often some good stuff indeed). As for the both dishes, yeah they were fantastic!! I wish salt cod wasn’t so onerous to deal with. I remember feeling that way about the brandade–that if only the cod didn’t need soaking and de-boning/de-finning, it would have been a much simpler proposition. That said, the substitutions others tried sounded great and I may try them, too. Oh and those fritters. I’m not one for frying things, and that was great.
The juxtaposition of wild life pictures and process shots of making the fritters and the stories behind this post make for a fantastic read. I like eating all kinds of seafood and welcome recipe like this.
Since I grew up down the street from you, our table was much the same as yours. However, my dad ( a farm boy) did like fish but it was always fried. I do remember him bringing home salted Codfish in a box that closely resembled the one in your picture. Mom soaked for quite a while to get some of the salt out!!
Love your posts, Mary!
Mary!! These are indeed dark times ahead for both USofA and the rest of the world.
Great post as usual, Mary, love the tribute to David. Lovely pictures of the coastal wildlife and the waters! beautiful!
Whenever I am out shopping… and if I do come across men who shops diligently ie looking closely at the labels, types of produce (that intrigues me), women are just like me and you – we are pros! LOL! no need to stalk them. And if I do sight them (the men) again in sections that I frequent….ting ting! I am on to someone good! So I would chat them up! Luckily I am an old lady so their spouses normally put up with me!
The fritters I made are from a fresh batch of salmon and potatoes! The earlier batch of puree got thrown out. The second batch was more salmon than potatoes so a lot easier to handle I might add! Almost forgot about the breadcrumbs though, almost! Anyways, for shallow frying – go oval or oblong!
ps: from a person who has been to four rallies (first two – got tear gas-ed and running from the authorities)
(copy the following links and ‘search’ them!
Bersih #2 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOICD3WezGw)
Bersih #2 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4LKFRrP03s) ~ most violent!
Bersih #3 (http://malaysiansmustknowthetruth.blogspot.my/2012/05/reality-of-what-happened-during-bersih.html)
Bersih #4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJGFlhPg5CQ)
Bersih #5 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjywHUz0dbQ)
pps: We attendees at all Bersih rallies – clean up the streets at the end of each and every rally ~ point for future marches, Mary! Good folks dressed in yellow and bad guys in red!
ppps: the links are clickable!