Who saw the movie?
It’s been 5 weeks since I arrived in Paris with 2 small suitcases, keys to an Airbnb rental (first time ever) and a blank slate. Albeit unnerving, the onus on me, there’s freedom in that. If my friends and family questioned the sanity of this adventure, I didn’t know it. That was truly a gift. When I asked them, a time or two or three, “Have I lost my mind?” No one said, “Yes.”
I arrived with the wind of their optimistic wishes at my back. This trip has been truly magical. Although I’ll wring every ounce of joy possible out of these last few days in Paris, going home is definitely on my radar.
Japanese Cherry Tree,
(Cerisier du japon)
Meanwhile, here’s a look at Paris Week #5, best yet.
Mary & Dorie, the French Fridays girls
FRENCH THURSDAY with DORIE
We had dinner at Bistrot Paul Bert with the man himself, Bertrand Auboyneau.
As many of you know, my blog began eight years ago with French Fridays with Dorie, an international group which connected virtually to cook the book, Around my French Table. The cookbook, newly published by the James Beard award-winning author Dorie Greenspan, contained 300 recipes.
Over the next 5 years, with Dorie’s friendship, encouragement and mentoring, we made them all. And we now look forward to cooking from Everyday Dorie, The Way I Cook, which hits the stands October 23.
The fish is Sole and was delicious but note the cauliflower.
Dorie and her husband, Michael, who have an apartment in Paris, arrived unexpectedly a week ago and asked me to join them for dinner. (My social calendar, of course, was blank.) Before dinner Michael took me out on their balcony where, starting with the Tour Eiffel and moving left, I could see every major Parisian landmark. I’ve archived that unforgettable moment.
You can see in two photos that Dorie ordered scallops for an entrée. Here are what Coquille Saint Jacques look like in the markets.
ANGELINA, MS. BELLE ÉPOQUE
Several weeks ago I enjoyed a memorable dinner at Susanna and Philippe Saint-Loubert’s home. Susanna called last week with two questions: 1) Did I like chocolate? (Yes), and 2) Had I been to Angelina’s Tea House? (No).
“I know it’s touristy, Mary,” she admitted, “but you must go once and have their hot chocolate.”
I was game so Saturday we met at the famous Angelina’s on Rue de Rivoli. Established in 1903 by Antoine Rumpelmayer and named for his granddaughter, Angelina’s is a Parisian institution. It was designed by French architect Édouard-Jean Niermans in the Belle Époque style and retains that gorgeous interior to this day. Its fame derives from its almost pudding-like hot chocolate. We happily piled on the Chantilly cream and enjoyed.
When I was walking home from Angelina’s, I stopped to watch about 100 kids breakdancing in the middle open square at the Louvre. Two young men (not shown) were the leaders.
FAMILIAR FACES
This is the week that my home away from home included Aspenites. So thrilled to see them.
I couldn’t stop smiling. (L to R) Karen Kribs, Me, Fred Venrick, Pat Hutchinson, Nancy Alciatore and Cathy O’Connell.
And, joined by Jim Hutchinson at the head of the table. Fred and Cathy just arrived from attending the London Book Fair where she promoted her new book to be published in September. We were celebrating.
Mille Feuille Minute a la Vanille Bourbon
We ate at Le MaZenay in the 3rd Arrondisement.
My longtime friend and Ranger colleague, Judy Schramm, arrived yesterday with her granddaughter, Thea. I remember when Thea was born. And, no, I did not say that. She is darling and so excited to be in Paris.
On Sunday Cathy volunteered to take Karen and me on a sightseeing stroll. Karen and I envisioned a 2-3 hour walk especially since Cathy had hip replacement surgery 10 weeks ago. What began at 11:30am didn’t end until 5:30pm, 7 miles later. Karen and I staged a sweet sit-in and were rewarded.
BONSOIR de PARIS.
There are moments when there are so many exciting things to respond to that one is not sure where to even begin. Truly. This has been a wonderful tour Mary and I’ve relished every moment along with you. Thanks for sharing yet another joyous life filling experience and all the fabulous people and places toward farewell!
Please don’t return home because I don’t want these Paris posts to end! I’m living vicariously through you—reading about your adventures is a lovely distraction from the chaos of my house! Safe travels back across the pond. xoxo
I can’t believe it’s almost time for you to come home. I am delighted that you were able to connect with Dorie and Michael. It’s like a cherry on top of your Parisian sundae! And that hot chocolate looks truly amazing. Enjoy the last few days of your trip! I’ll vicariously tag along on any trip you take. Your travelogues are WONDERFUL! xo
Great Blog Mary, but where’s the Baron Rouge? You left out the charcuterie and the Quincy.
I was trying not to embarrass myself and Karen by admitting to charcuterie, cheese and a bottle of Sancerre prior to the sundae. I do have photos. Now we’ve been outed.
Hi Mary
We met you yesterday in St Germaine. It was a total pleasure and hope to meet up with you again at some point in New York, Colorado or Paris !!
Dearest Mary,
I wish I had expressive words at my fingertips to describe the wonderful journey you have led us through these past 5 weeks.
I read your blogs over and over and could not wait for the next one.
“Any moment can change your life, you just have to be there,” AND you were definitely there.
Love and Hugs,
Jessica
These are super recollections. You have captured Paris up close and personal. How wonderful to cook and bake with such a chef!! Ian so glad that you have this opportunity. ❤️❤️
Your trip has looked fantastic! Oh my goodness- the food was beautiful and can
only imagine how tasty it all was. I admire you so for making the best of your 5 weeks there
alone! Hope to see you back in Aspen.
I enjoyed following your Parisian adventure via your blog! I remember visiting Angelina and their exquisite hot chocolate. Have nothing but admiration for you, traveling solo and really taking advantage of your experience.
Viva la France!
All divine. Extraordinary visit on all fronts. You have made such memories.
We welcome you back to the farm, but after 6 weeks in Paris the farm will be well… just a place to farm.
Get the hot chocolate recipe for the farm.
Mary,
What do you do in your spare time????
I spent so much time in Paris with Jim over the years that once he was gone, I thought I wouldn’t go back. But looking at all your blogs from there, I’m seriously reconsidering.
What fun to travel to Paris via your blog! Wonderful photos, my dear, what a wonderful trip! I admire you for doing this alone…safe travels home! Its still winter in the Midwest, so hap p y to be in the sunshine!
How wonderful! What a fabulous adventure.
HOLY COW! I cannot add a refined exclamation to this post!! I am proud, envious and grateful all at the same time. What an amazing adventure. Thank you, thank you for sharing.