Last week, just as the Polar Vortex had powered up to “don’t even think of flying into Chicago’s O’Hare Airport,” I was scheduled to fly to London. In an attempt to assure I would fly the friendly skies, United Airlines had changed my Aspen-Chicago departure flight time twice. While it may have seemed wacky to arrive at Aspen’s airport at 8am for my now 1pm flight, that’s what I did.
EVELIA PUPO CASTILLO
If the early bird catches the worm, I wanted to be that birdie. Although no one was checking in for flights yet, Agent Evelia Castillo was on duty. I approached the desk and asked if I had a shot at getting out today. She looked at my ticket and grimaced.
Without a word Agent Castillo began doing that computer clicking-and-clacking that airline agents do, before saying, “Let’s see if we can do better.”
In less than 45 minutes she had me on Aspen-Houston – London (direct) flights. I arrived in London ten hours earlier than originally scheduled. What Evelia doesn’t know is that having been in a plane crash involving snow, I don’t fly easily on sunny days. In bad weather, fearfully anxious, I drink. (Gracias, Ms. Evelia.)
SAFELY ACROSS the POND
My first week here, as the Brits say, has been “brilliant.”
Most international flights converge on Heathrow around 6-7am. Who planned that? The customs queue, an hour long, was diverse, orderly and subdued. (“Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.”) Not noisy America, for sure.
For me, this city means theatre. Only in London could I see Tina, the Tina Turner musical which premiered here in March 2018 at the Aldwych Theatre. Built in 1907 in the Edwardian Baroque-style, the Aldwych is three-tiered and holds 1,200 people. Sold out, always. “Tina” arrives in New York in Fall, 2019.
Because I’ve never seen 9-Tony awards-winning The Book of Mormon, today, I did. Playing in the Prince of Wales Theatre, seating 1,100 people, it was unexpectedly outrageous and hilarious. This theatre’s claim to fame is its ample supply of women’s bathrooms. No waiting in line, Ladies. Boom!
Tate Britain, often overshadowed by Tate Modern, is amazing. On Monday I re-visited my old English friends, landscape painter J.M.W. Turner and sculptor Henry Moore. According to my guide, Peter Scott, there are 37,000 Turner items entrusted to Tate Britain’s care. Since I’d never eaten in its famous Rex Whistler Restaurant, I righted that wrong. Monserrat, the manager and my waitress, treated me to the ultimate Whistler (that British Whistler without the Mother) experience.
In searching for the quintessential English pub, I settled on The Salisbury, named after Queen Victoria’s favorite prime minister. With its original cut glass and hand-carved mahogany splendor, it’s a fine example of a late-Victorian pub.
So happy that I had time to make Sweet Chili Chicken Thighs, this week’s CooktheBookFridays recipe choice before leaving Aspen. Dorie explains this recipe as ‘ a simple sauté-then-braise affair emboldened by a chili/soy mixture.’ The combination of Thai sweet chili sauce, soy sauce, Dijon mustard and Sriracha kick plain Jane chicken thighs up a few notches.
FRENCH FRIDAYS, EVERYDAY DORIE
If you’re inspired, I’ll be happy to send the recipe. What I like best about Dorie’s newest cookbook is her introduction of intriguing ingredients/combinations that she’s picked up from her recent travels and food experiences. She’s almost a “new” Dorie but in the finest sense. And, Readers, no one writes a clearer recipe or explains the process better than Dorie. She’s a Pro.
Love the post Mary! Everything looks amazing. Can’t wait to follow along.
And so funny about the politics.
Mary…..I took a little trip with you this afternoon. Every image looked so delicious my mouth is watering and I just finished lunch! You are an amazing traveler and you inspire me. I’d love Dori’s chicken recipe when you get a chance. Keep writing and traveling….
What a wonderful time you’re having. Am thrilled to live vicariously through your adventures in photos and words!
SO glad you got an earlier, non Chicago connecting flight. And going to the theatre is a brilliant idea for early arrivals (though Bill would sleep through the whole show!) Enjoy your time abroad—I’m going to crack open my cookbook and try this recipe! xp
So glad you arrived safe and sound Mary. And so glad you are having a marvelous time. The Tate…how wonderful! I would love to have Dorie’s receipe for sweet chili chicken thighs…looks yummy! But no rush…enjoy your time in London!
Karen
You were genius about getting to London. Travel is so stressful with all the uncertainties, but you are your own force of nature.
Trip sounds so wonderful and I wish we had a few more days in London on our last visit. but why were the peas not mushy?
Hi Mary,
Your photos and comments brought back many memories of our having lived in London
45 years ago. I especially loved the photo of the gentlemen with their coats on in the pub!
Dorie’ chicken thighs sound delicious…yes, sent the recipe when you have time.
Carry on with travels and have a wonderful time for all of us on this side of the pond.
Charlotte
Mary, You go girl! You are so precious and WONDERFUL!! I love following you around the globe.
Brilliant indeed ! Loving following along to your London adventures, not to mention of course your Dorie postings 🙂 Wasn’t this fabulous indeed. Boy am I loving this latest book of hers, it is going to get a lot of repeat play in my house. Now back to London. As stated before, love everything you are doing and am vicariously living through your posts. Keep em coming. Not sure if I had mentioned it but we managed to catch a play called “Bat out of Hell the Musical”, a la Meatloaf’s infamous album from many years ago. I was a teen when the album was a hit so I knew I was spot on in the demographic. I underestimated how fabulous the show would be and it exceeded on all levels, including my hubby and I laughing at the poor British family behind us that had too old and too young members attending and had no idea what was going on. Unlike me, who knew all the words to each song for YEARS now….they respectfully and politely left a t intermission after discussing they didn’t want to ruin the show for others. Only in London. 🙂
Love, love, love your travel blogs. I just bought the Everyday Dorie, on your recommendation, and can’t wait to try my first recipe!!
Sending this in to Dorie Greenspan. She will be pleased. Thank you, Dot. Looking forward to seeing more of you and Buzz this summer.
Happy Lunar New year!!!You are doing it with style. Thanks for images of the restaurant at the Tate; its
on the “must do list”.
If you have a spare moment the Wallace Museum; has a strong porcelain collection. We enjoyed a courtyard lunch
there.
Hope you saw “Dior, special exhibit,” at the Denver Art Museum……closes early March.
Your joie de vie is amazing, Mary. Always savoring the moment and smiling. Cheers to you!
My dearly beloved and much missed friend, Marsha, and I made a couple of trips to London. Your adventures have caused me to reminisce about our many adventures together. There’s nothing like a friend of the heart. I’m glad your enjoyed this recipe as much as I did! Don’t know if you’re familiar with Honig Sauvignon Blanc but it was really good with this! I saw a touring company production of The Book of Norman and was quite surprised by some of the scenes! Some of the people around us left! Anyhow, Gary and I laughed ourselves silly and thought it shocking and entertaining and brilliant! I would love to hear more about your plane crash experience! I once participated in an FAA air craft evacuation study and have been fascinated since then!
Dear Mary, nothing beats travelling and London is on my wish list, always is, always will be…for some reason we never managed to travel to that city…What a nice start to your European travel adventure to be able to catch an earlier flight and thereby shortening travel and waiting time.
Continued fun times with many more adventures, my friend!
Andrea