“Good news is rare these days, and every glittering ounce of it should be cherished and hoarded and worshipped and fondled like a priceless diamond.” RIP Dr. Gonzo
Counterculture icon Hunter S. Thompson, until his death in 2005, lived in nearby Woody Creek. I occasionally saw him hanging out at WC Tavern. He was prickly, eccentric and having given birth to Gonzo Journalism, wildly creative. This quote is spot on any and every day.
Honey-glazed, Tangerine Cheesecake
COOKtheBOOKFRIDAYS
While Good News is okay, I have Great News. Those of us cooking virtually with Dorie Greenspan the past nine years through Around my French Table and now her new Everyday Dorie, The Way I Cook, are doing the happy dance. This cookbook was just nominated in the General Cookbook division for a prestigious James Beard award.
Although Dorie has already won five Beards for her cooking and writing skills, she seems particularly pleased by this nomination. Perhaps this has something to do with the company she’s keeping. Also nominated are her friends, the legendary Christopher Kimball, Milk Street: The New Home Cooking and well-regarded Israeli-English chef, Yotam Ottolenghi for Simple.
Juicy Salmon Burger
EVERYDAY DORIE, THE WAY I COOK
Due to copyright constraints we often can’t post recipes. However, this week’s 3 recipes were shared to promote the cookbook so it’s possible to do.
To make quick pickled onions, make a brine of 1/2 cup cider vinegar, 5 TBS water, 1 TBS sugar and 1/2 tsp fine sea salt. Shake or stir. Add 1 medium, thinly sliced onion. Stir to coat onions and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Besides this week’s CooktheBookFridays’ recipe choice of juicy Salmon Burgers and pickled red onions, the Food52 Cookbook Club on Facebook has chosen Everyday Dorie for its April book. If you’re interested in just hopping on and off the virtual food blogging train, check out this site. Every month Food52 chooses a cookbook and its club members (There are 1,112, 356 members!) cook from it and post when they wish. No pressure.
This was the scene from the airplane as I approached Aspen ten days ago. After being gone 41/2 months and taking into account the 24 hours and three long flights to return here, these mountains said Home.
JUICY SALMON BURGER, p. 174.
This week’s CtBF’s recipe choice is a flavor-packed Salmon Burger. Think lemons, capers, mustard (2 kinds), scallions, dill and Greek yogurt topped off with my homemade pickled red onions and sliced avocados. We had quite the snowstorm Wednesday so after getting more wintery exercise than intended and wanting to create a moment, I built a fire, sat on the hearth and had my salmon burger with chips and a pale ale for supper. (See recipe/tips below.)
HONEY-GLAZED,TANGERINE CHEESECAKE, p. 270 ( for FOOD52 CC)
“You hit a real home run with the honeyed cheese cake last night, Mary. The best I’ve ever eaten!” Bernie Grauer, dinner party host
When I landed in Aspen ten days ago my friend, Donna Grauer, was the first caller. “I think we should have a party to welcome you home,” she said.
Now what you must know about Donna is that if she sees you can pat the top of your head while rubbing your belly, she’ll determine it’s party time. Anxious to see good friends, I agreed and offered to bring dessert.
Charlotte’s salad spoke Springtime although we’re still all about snow. Her dressing was delightful – 3 Tablespoons olive oil, zest and juice of 1 lime, salt and pepper and dash of sugar.
After finishing Donna’s fabulous dinner, this cheesecake was dessert bliss, definitely on Bernie’s desert island list. Another guest, Charlotte McLain called it a killer cheese cake. “What a treat!! I loved the delicate citrus flavor and the light texture.” (See recipe and tips below.)
Michael and Charlotte McLain (l), Donna, Fred Venrick who, was just leaving to meet his wife, Cathy, in Paris, and Bernie.
So happy to be back in the mountains, Readers. Can you tell?
Because the road to Independence Pass is closed until Memorial Day, it’s a beautiful place to hike.
This recipe Link goes to one of my favorite radio programs, The Splendid Table which was first moderated by Lynn Rossetto Kasper and now Francis Lam.
Salmon Mixture
TIP: I cooked my patties in three batches, two in the pan at a time. By cooking them 3 minutes on each side, they stay together fine without any binder but be gentle.
Honey-glazed Tangerine Cheesecake:
Makes: 16 servings
Add crème fraîche, whipped cream or quartered citrus fruit if you wish.
Ingredients:
1 cup sugar 2 to 3 tangerines (or 2 or 3 lemons or 2 oranges) 1 1/2 lbs cream cheese, cut into chunks 1/2 tsp fine sea salt 2 lbs whole-milk ricotta (see note) 1/4 cup cornstarch 3 large eggs, room temperature 2 tsp pure vanilla extract 1/2 to 1 tsp pure orange extract or oil
3 tbsp cookie or graham cracker crumbs or dried bread crumbs
Honey, for glaze and serving
NOTE: Working Ahead: The cake must be refrigerated for at least 8 hours, or overnight.
sugar and citrus zest
Directions:
Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 325°F. Butter a 10-inch springform pan, dust it with the cookie or bread crumbs and knock out the excess. Set the pan on a baking sheet. (Caterer Judy Boyd suggested to me that Keebler’s Pecan Sandies cookie crumbles would make a nice crust also.)
Put the sugar in the bowl or in a very large bowl if you’re using a hand mixer. Grate the tangerine zest (to taste) over the sugar and, using your fingers, rub the two together until the sugar is moist and very fragrant — it might even turn orange. If you are going to serve the tangerines or oranges with the cake, wrap them in plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed. If you’re using a stand mixer, attach the bowl and fit it with the paddle attachment.
Cheesecake Filling
Add the cream cheese and salt to the bowl and beat on medium speed, scraping the bowl often, for 4 minutes. Spoon in the ricotta and beat and scrape for another 4 minutes — all this beating is what will give you the creamy texture you’ll love. Turn off the mixer, add the cornstarch and then mix on low speed to incorporate it. One by one, add the eggs, mixing on medium speed for 1 minute after each egg goes in. Beat in the vanilla extract and orange extract, if you’re using it. Scrape the batter into the pan and swivel the pan to level it.
Bake the cake for 90 minutes without opening the oven door. The cake may crack, but that’s normal. The top may have risen above the rim of the pan and it will have browned. Turn the oven off and open the door a little — prop it open with a wooden spoon, if necessary — and let the cake rest in the oven for 1 hour.
Transfer the cake to a rack and let it cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or, better, overnight.
When you’re ready to serve the cake, run a table knife between the cake and the sides of the pan and remove the springform ring.
To glaze the cake warm about 3 tablespoons honey in a saucepan or microwave just until it’s liquid. With a light touch, brush it over the top of the cake. Pass more honey at the table, if you’d like.
If you are serving with tangerines or oranges, working with one at a time, stand the fruit up on a cutting board and, using a sharp knife, slice away the rind and white pith, cutting so that you remove a thin layer of the fruit as well; it’s important to expose the fruit. Now, working over a bowl, cut between the fruit and the membranes to release the segments; remove any seeds. Squeeze the membranes to release whatever juice remains and stir it into the fruit. If not using immediately, cover and refrigerate until needed (they’ll be fine for up to 6 hours.)
Use a long knife to cut the cake, running the blade under (or dipping it into) hot water and wiping it dry between cuts. If you’re using the tangerines, either spoon some fruit and juice over each slice or pass the fruit at the table.
Oven-ready
Storing: Wrapped well, the cake will keep in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, although the glaze might not fare as well as the cake. Unglazed, the cake can be wrapped airtight and frozen for up to 2 months; defrost overnight in the refrigerator.
NOTE: If your ricotta has liquid around it or if it seems loose in any way, it’s best to spoon it into a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a bowl, fold the cloth over the cheese, place a weight, like a can of beans, on top and put the setup in the fridge to drain for about 3 hours.
Cémeux chocolate/orange, sablé cacao, sorbet safran/orange. Semilla, 54 Rue de Seine, Paris
Wednesday was the UN’s International Day of Happiness and France’s National Macaron Day. I defy anyone to nosh on macarons, pull up Pharrell William’s Happy on their iPod and not bust a sugar-high move or two. Joy always transcends embarrassing one’s self.
I took a French Cheese and Wine Class offered by Paris by Mouth and taught by the masterful cheese connoisseur, Jennifer Greco.
I’m an Iowa girl. Seeing the Midwest under water is heart-breaking. Colorado has experienced over 3,000 avalanches this winter. Uncertainty reigns everywhere. So where’s the happy dance in all that?
Salade Asiatique, Crostini de Pain au Curcuma (Prawns, coriander, bean sprouts, peanuts, mangoes, rice vermicelli, sweet and sour lemon vinaigrette with crostini bread with tumeric. ) Eric Kayser, 85 Blvd. Malesherbes, Paris. Eric, an artisan boulanger, is recognized as one of France’s premier bakers.
Here’s my answer. While it’s essential to be Present, caring for what you can control, let’s agree to all needing a daily dose of Joy Juice. To laugh. To smile. “The more you praise and celebrate your life, the more there is in life to celebrate.”
While I wasn’t planning to be in this skirmish when the Gilet Jaunes (yellow vests) crossed Pont Neuf on their way to the Champs Élysées, I was. I stepped behind this group of police – they knew I was there – and waited until the marchers passed by.
Celebrating. That’s Oprah. She also suggests moving out of your comfort zone. Well, Ms. O., D-O-N-E. At times this winter, I’ve been wobbly, feeling a bubble off, maybe. But here’s what I tell myself. Feeling awkward or uncomfortable? Get over it. No one else is paying attention to that. If my self esteem takes a hit, shake it off. Recently I received an e-mail from Emma, my 16-year old granddaughter, that began, “OMG, Grandma, you’re such a Rebel.” I don’t need Joy Juice or Oprah, I have Emma!
Eight years ago I joined French Fridays with Dorie, an international food blogging group that cooked together virtually every week. It was serendipity that four of us were all in Paris last week: Mardi Michaels (far left) my cooking colleague and cookbook author who lives in Toronto; Patty Price, (far right) lives in San Francisco; Dorie, our generous mentor, and her husband Michael have an apartment in Paris. The four of us had dinner at Semilla, a popular restaurant in the 6th arrondissement.
If you’re interested in learning about this Rebel’s stellar Paris itinerary the past two weeks…..
HERE’S THE SCOOP
Considered the best tasting cinnamon rolls in Paris right now, one morning Patty Price and I were at Circus Bakery to grab the first darlin’s taken out of the oven. Early AM. Rainy and Cold. Thirty-minute Walk. Goal Accomplished and well worth it. Circus Bakery, 63 Rue Galande, 75005 Paris
Last winter I scheduled guided Paris Walks. This year I walked Paris. I’ve tasted and rubbernecked my way through this vibrant city. Hopefully the walking will lessen the consequences of my don’t-hold-back eating.
FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON – I climbed to the top of Frank Gehry’s architectual wonder to have a spectacular view of Paris.
In addition to the Courtauld Collection at Fondation LV, I also saw Yakoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirror Room.
If there’s a crowded street food line, I’ve joined it. Today it was Lebanese. Being clueless, I muttered “Je ne sais rien,”
“Knowing nothing” earned me a comrade-in-line who planned my order. When I stepped up to the counter, the owner smiled, saying in perfect English, “We will get you all fixed up.” (And he did, with Shawarma au bœuf libanais.)
The Fondation’s dining room is well-worth a visit. Sitting under a Gehry designed school of suspended fish, I had their luncheon special which was Poached egg, mushrooms and celery/Beetroots’ tartar, mimosa style/Bio quinoa, crispy fennel and Mushrooms’ volouté, cocoa nibs. It was all kinds of delicious. Dessert, a lemon tart.
Without today’s technology my trip couldn’t happen. I use my iPhone for travel itineraries and check-ins, museum tickets, walking maps and photographs. It’s my security blanket. It’s also a link to the life I live. I’m never lonely because I’m not alone. There’s a steady flow of texts and e-mails from friends and my Gant and Cali families.
Clara began high jumping late last Spring 2018. She is now a sophomore. She is very good.
The best tech magic, however, was last week when Clara, a sophomore, competed in a southern Cali track invitational 200 miles from Bishop. Her sister Emma texted this picture to Melissa. Within the hour, that text landed in Paris followed shortly by Clara’s text saying she’d jumped her personal best, winning second place. That was the same day I saw Van Gogh’s “Self Portrait with a Bandaged Ear” (which came in second place to Clara’s second place). Life does not get better.
Saint Chapelle
I’ve settled into a comfortable rhythm visiting museums, churches and sites. At Fondation Louis Vuitton, I wandered through English industrialist Samuel Courtauld’s collection of impressionist painters…twice. I watched an amazing 30-minute light/musical immersion of Van Gogh’s paintings at the Atelier des Lumières. The Petit Palais didn’t disappoint nor did Musée Cernuschi which has a remarkable Asian art collection.
Chou-fleur (cauliflower) grillé, pulpe et raisins marinés, câpres croustillantes. Semilla
One afternoon I stopped by the Panthéon to honor the greats buried in its necropolis. I had a list and found them all – Jean Moulin, the Curie’s, Louis Braille and also Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, Zola, Descartes and Dumas. It felt good to do that.
The Umbrella Sky Project is brightening up the Paris skyline this spring. Eight hundred blue, pink, yellow and green are hanging out at Le Village Royal, 25 Rue Royale, 75008 Paris.
Although there’s still much to do this week, I’ll soon fly home and will be very happy to be in Aspen.
Many of you know during Aspen’s summer season I’m a volunteer USFS Ranger decked out in the required uniform and official paraphernalia. When on a mountain trail patrol, if I see a tourist who is lost, separated from their hiking group or panicky, I know what to do.
Currently I am an American in Paris, a visitor, a guest. The best word to describe me is “careful.” That’s why when I spotted a little guy, about four-years-old, opening the gate at Square Jean XXIII park near Notre Dame Cathédrale last Sunday, it gave me pause. I looked around, saw no parents but did see a busy crowded boulevard, cars, and the Seine.
SUNDAY MORNING, LOOKING DOWN FROM MY FIRST FLOOR WINDOW
I slowly approached him, remembering the verb for “lost” and asked if he was. He didn’t respond but ‘about to cry’ means, “Yes.” As he wandered around the park, a young woman asked me if he was lost. Realizing he was, she said, “I’ll stay with you until he finds his parents.”
I’M STILL WATCHING. HE’S STILL PLAYING.
We didn’t touch him nor hold his hand nor say a word to him. We just kept him safe until we heard an obviously embarrassed Dad and worried Grandpa waving, hollering and thanking us. The entire incident took only ten to fifteen minutes but in that time the little tyke could have walked out the gate.
ON THAT SAME RAINY AND COLD SUNDAY MORNING, HERE’S A GENTLEMAN ON A PARIS RENTAL BIKE WHO HAD JUST BEEN TO THE OUTDOOR MARKET (SEE THE FLOWERS IN HIS BASKET) AND IS PICKING UP A PAPER FROM THE STREET SIDE VENDOR.
When I leave Paris, will that be the incident I remember most? Not likely. What I will remember is that I am one of at least 23 million tourists who visit a city that 2.2 million Parisians call home. It’s their turf and I’m cautious.
That being said, every day in Paris is like starting over ….. and, that’s a beautiful thing.* Here’s what my second week here looked like.
MACRON, MACARON, MACAROON, MACARONI
Not perfect, of course, but baked by Mary Hirsch!
Oui, it’s confusing! Today we’re only dealing with macarons, that small, round almond cake/cookie with a meringue-like consistency made from almond flour, powdered sugar and egg whites. Two of those little darlings are “glued” together with a delicious, creamy filling. They can be made in a rainbow of colors with plain to exotic fillings.
CHEF SÉGOLÈNE – the Best Macaron Professor Ever
BAKED & COOLING
I signed up for what was a fabulous three-hour macaron class at LaCuisine Paris, a well-regarded cooking school. Under the watchful eye of our talented chef, Ségolène, eight of us learned two different meringue methods, four classic fillings and many macaron baking tips. We made 20 dozen cookies (10 dozen macarons)!
Chef said we needed to see if the egg whites were “whipped and ready” by turning the bowl over on our partner’s head. Maria, my partner and a semi-professional baker, wasn’t too sure about her novice partner.
Whew.
PARIS HAS, COUNT ‘EM, 130 MUSEUMS
SANGLIER ( WILD BOAR ) at the Hunting/Nature Museum.
This week I visited two new-to-me museums, Le Musée de la Chasse de la Nature (The Museum of Hunting and Nature), housed in the grand Hôtel de Guénégaud, circa 1651, and The Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac, a Museum of Arts and Civilizations of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.
This photo is all over Facebook. I saw an entire film of this eagle attacking the drone and taking it down several times at the Museum of Hunting & Nature. It’s my understanding that the French Army has trained four golden eagles to knock down or put out of commission battery-charged drones that fly into security-sensitive zones. This is one of those eagles. (Photo compliments of Museum of Hunting & Nature and French Government.)
Both museums were quite dazzling, with their own personalities and well worth my time. See their websites listed below.
I chatted with some very tall, new friends at The Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac.
COOKTHEBOOKFRIDAYS – EVERYDAY DORIE, THE WAY I COOK
Our recipe choice this week is Dorie Greenspan’s POTATO TOURTE. Using the same method as pie-baking but by exchanging store-bought puff pastry for pie crust, you’ll understand what this is about. Another French twist are the ingredients, potatoes, onions, garlic, herbs, butter and heavy cream. Those last two are shockers, right?
Using equipment found in my flat and not much counter space , I started building the tourte. Note my rolling pin needed for the puff pastry, an icy cold wine bottle.
After slicing and dicing, layer everything except the cream into your pie or tart container like a composed salad. Save the butter for the top. Salt, pepper. Bake at 400 degrees and, mid-baking, slowly pour the cream through the X vent of your top crust.
This tourte is as tasty as it is eye-appealing. The genius of Dorie is her skillfulness in walking you through her recipes. For those of you, like me, who aren’t pro’s, she tends to answer a question just as you’re wanting to ask it. This dish works for lunch with a salad, for dinner as a side or as a snack, note the crème fraîche.
As I said, I made today’s recipe in my tiny one-counter kitchen. Although I love, love, love my flat here in Paris, when I return to Aspen and my 940 sq. foot condo, it will seem like a mansion. (More photos of it in next week’s blog.)
Last Friday morning I boarded the Eurostar in London and 2 hours, 15 minutes later, arrived at Gare du Nord in Paris. I will be here five weeks. This is a take 3-deep-breaths birthday year for me (I have until October to adjust.) and I am determined to make each day a doozie.
Early one morning I watched this artist stake out his spot at Église Saint Germain des Prés, one of the oldest Romanesque churches in France
Remembering Édith Piaf, La Vie en Rose
When I was in Paris last winter, I lived in the Marais on the Right Bank. It feels medieval, has more pre-revolutionary buildings and streets intact than anywhere in Paris and is in the heart of the Jewish quarters. This year, instead of returning to what I knew, I chose to live on the Rive Gauche (Left Bank) located south of the Seine in the Saint-Germain des Prés neighborhood.
Freddy’s
Much of this week has been bumbling my way here and there, soliciting tips and pulling up Google Maps. Besides locating Monoprix, Carrefore and la poste, I’ve also nailed Carton ( best local croissants ), Freddy’s (wine bar, small shareable plates) and the famous Poilâne’s on Cherche-Midi (they still bake bread in their basement oven and sell it in their upstairs boulangerie). On Sunday I walked to Marché Raspail, an organic 150-stall open market which is the largest in France and then stopped by Henri Le Roux’s, the renown chocolatier/caramelier whose shop is below my flat.
Wine and Roses at the SALON INTERNATIONAL de l’AGRICULTURE
I visited the remarkable Musée de Cluny, the National Museum of the Middle Ages, on the last day of its Magical Unicorn exhibition. This 15th Century Hôtel de Cluny mansion, is surrounded by a sprawling Roman bathhouse dating from the Gallo-Roman period. Its famous collection includes the “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestries, c.1500, thus the retrospective on the mystical horned-critter. Yesterday I paid respects to Notre Dame but the scaffolding is distractive. Then again, this formidable old lady has stood tall since 1163 when construction began and desperately needs this ongoing restoration work.
SALON INTERNATIONAL de l’AGRICULTURE
For some fifty years this ten-day Salon has been the annual meeting & event site for the key players of the agricultural world. It is my good fortune to be in Paris now and, even better, to attend it with my friends, cookbook author Dorie Greenspan and her husband, Michael, as well as Jane Bertch, who founded La Cuisine Paris, a cooking school/food tour company. I’ve booked her 5-star food tours in the past and will be taking my first LCP cooking class next week (macarons). What better group to tag with than these three foodies.
Jane and Dorie, our Tarte Flambée stop
Michael, sampling cheese
How to explain this gigantic event…put the Iowa State Fair together with the Aspen Food & Wine Festival on steroids and take that times ten. Or, better yet, just have a look at my photos. Please know we started sampling oysters at 11am in the morning and worked our way through cheeses, saucisson (dry sausages), candy, Tarte Flambée, an Alsatian pizza with cheese, bacon, and onions, foie gras sandwiches, Tourteau fromagé (a cheesecake baked at 700 degrees) and a custard flan with French prunes, all washed down with wines and beer. Seriously?
Tome Fraiche de l’Aubrac – this cheese is used to make Aligot, a fondue-like dish made from cheese blended into mashed potatoes that is made in the L’Aubrac region of France.
There were all kinds of farm animals to be judged and on display. This little guy was my favorite.
It’s Paris Fashion Week 2019 and this is the window of Karl Lagerfeld’s flagship brand store on Saint-Germain Boulevard. The windows are covered with black shades with this tribute in appreciation of their boss. RIP KL 1938-2019
Carton, 6 Rue de Buci, 75006 Paris
Poilâne, 8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris
Freddy’s, 54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
Marché Raspail, Boulevard Raspail, between the streets of Cherche Midi and Rennes, 6th
Maison Le Roux Chocolatier et Caramélier, 1 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006
COOKtheBOOKFRIDAYS
Our recipe choice this week, David Lebovitz’s LEEKS with MUSTARD-BACON VINAIGRETTE, is too tasty to miss. Please try it. Since my kitchen here in Paris is adequate, I get to cook every week. Next week is POTATO TOURTE from Dorie Greenspan’s Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook.
If any of you try David’s recipe, tell me if you liked it, will make it again and send me photos to use in my blog. Any problems? Let me know also.
LEEKS with MUSTARD-BACON VINAIGRETTE by David Lebovitz, My Paris Kitchen
5 large or 10 small leeks, cleaned but not sliced down the middle
2 eggs (hard-boiled) (I only used one.)
DIRECTIONS:
1.Cook the bacon over medium heat in a skillet until nearly crisp. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel to drain. When cool, chop the bacon into pieces about the size of tiny peas.
2. Whisk together the vinegar, mustard, and salt. Whisk in the oils, 1 tablespoon at a time (the sauce may emulsify, which is fine), then stir in 1 tablespoon of the parsley and two-thirds of the bacon. Set aside.
3. To prepare the leeks, fill a large pot fitted with a steamer with a couple of inches of water. Bring it to a boil over high heat and add the leeks. Cook the leeks until tender meaning when you poke them with a sharp paring knife, it should meet no resistance at the root ends. (Smaller leeks will take about 15 minutes, and larger ones will take about 30 minutes.)
4. Remove the leeks and let drain and cool on a plate lined with paper towels. Cut the leeks and half them crosswise and arrange on a serving platter alternating them head to tail.
5. Peel and dice the hard-cooked egg(s) and scatter them over the leeks.
6. Pour the vinaigrette over the leeks/egg(s). Use a fork or move the platter so that the dressing coats the leeks as thoroughly possible. Scatter the remaining bacon pieces and parsley on the top.
7. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
COOKtheBOOKFRIDAYS is an international group of food bloggers cooking it’s way through David Lebovitz’s My Paris Kitchen cookbook (almost completed) and Dorie Greenspan’s Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook (our journey is just beginning). If you wish to join us every week or occasionally go to https://cookthebookfridays.wordpress.com/ Or, contact me.
This pre-theatre lunch before seeing “Hamilton” was at Aster, an all day brasserie with a modern European menu, on Victoria Street. The best Duck Leg Confit I’ve ever tasted, with potatoes and spinach.
My bags are packed. I’m ready to go. Groucho Marx once claimed he was leaving the city because the weather was too good. “I hate London when it’s not raining.”
My friend, Cathy O’Connell, was in London working with her book publisher. We saw “Hamilton” together at the Victoria Palace Theatre.
Well, Mr. Marx, Mother Nature threw everything at me – wind, rain, cold and, now, sun. This past week 96 camellias popped open on a nearby bush in my front yard. I’m leaving this Chelsea flat rental with my treasure bank stuffed with joyful memories.
When I crossed the Pond before with Michael our focus was on all things Winston and Windsor. Military and monarchy. We dropped too many American dollars at flea markets/antique shops and always left London smiling. This time it was about museums, galleries, theatre and tea time. Although I’m prone to attack each day as if it were my last, I still came up short!
My daughter, Melissa, and my first stop after she arrived was at St. Paul’s Cathedral. Dating from the late 17th century, St. Paul’s was designed by Sir Christopher Wren who is buried there. We climbed up 376 steps to this outside Stone Gallery. It was too wet and windy to get to the top. (Thank God.)
TEA
The 300-year-old lengthy, narrow Twining’s on the Strand has always been in this location. Starting at the threshold and running almost its entire length are dark wooden shelves, stacked high with box after box of tea leaves and bags from all over the world and in all kinds of blends.
Melissa joined me for a week. She wish-listed, I organized and we concocted a killer itinerary. As a tea drinker, she first picked a Masterclass Tea Experience offered by Twining’s. Although I’m an 8-mugs-a-day coffee addict and know nothing about T-E-A, I booked it.
Julia and Melissa with the six categories of tea.
Julia, our instructor, shared tea’s historical story, followed by a tasting session. Melissa and Julia bonded over, well, everything. I found its history fascinating. Here’s the short form: 1) Discovered in China in 2737 BC; 2) Introduced to England by their Portuguese Queen and wife of Charles II in the 1660s; 3) Tea quickly became the national beverage; 4) Today Brits drink 165 million cups of tea a day (60.2 billion annually) as opposed to 7 million cups of coffee.
We also had brunch at the magnificently-decorated French Tea Emporium Mariage Frères, which just opened in Covent Gardens. Our waiter and Melissa are tea talking while I’m narrowing down my pastry choices.
During WW I, tea was scarce, a morale catastrophe for the English. With WW II approaching and lesson learned, Churchill stockpiled tea. By 1942 the British government had purchased the world’s entire supply of black tea. During the war, Julia told us, there was always enough tea for the soldiers, hospitals and Red Cross workers, a definite morale booster.
This was my brunch choice: an omelette with smoked salmon and marinated vegetables. My pastry of choice was a tea-infused canele.
“There were three things during the War we evacuated to the countryside for safe keeping,” Julia said. “First, the tea. Secondly, our priceless museum objects. And, third, the children. In that order.”
We joined the Year of the Pig New Years celebration in Chinatown. While we were having Dim Sum, this fanciful creature appeared and preformed at our restaurant’s door. Scary, huh?
THEATRE
Few cities can rival London productions and the venues where they’re produced. I saw five. Our bookends were The Mousetrap, the classic Agatha Christie mystery that’s run continuously in London’s West End since 1952. Totally English crowd. Doesn’t get better than that!
Everybody’s Talking About Jamie This award-winning musical was inspired by the 2011 BBC documentary, “Jamie: Drag Queen at 16, ” about a Sheffield boy who was non-binary. We all recognize being ostracized and bullied. This play was a magical lesson in acceptance. The audience, primarily English, was filled with teenagers and lots of families. Loved this experience.
We had lunch at Harrod’s Tea Room where I ordered Shepherd’s pie with seasonal greens and lamb gravy. Delicious.
Also, Hamilton. Hooray to the Brits for laughing and clapping at the portrayal of George III, the play’s royal funnyman. In addition, The Book of Mormon and Tina, the Tina Turner Musical, coming to Broadway next fall.
At Harrod’s Melissa ordered Spiced roast cauliflower salad with baby spinach and pickled shallots.
MUSEUMS and GALLERIES
A Sunday at the National Gallery. Children and their parents were everywhere playing a bingo game with paintings or listening to story hour. Busy and happy.
Why not bring your dolls and stuffed animals to the National Gallery?
I visited parts of 6 museums: the two Tates, Britain and Modern; the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery, Victoria & Albert and Sir John Sloane’s. The historic house, museum and library of Sloane, a renown 19th-century classical architect, is filled with his exceptional collection of art, sculptures, furniture and artifacts.
This is the Dior-designed navy dress with lace trim that Princess Diana wore to the annual Met Gala in New York in 1996. It is now considered a key piece of fashion history. (The exhibition’s ballroom was dark.)
Since these museums are overwhelming, some thoughts, especially if you are alone: 1) Take advantage of the docent talks/tours offered. I joined many but a V&A architectural tour was especially fantastic. Prince Albert reigns! 2) Does the museum have a special restaurant? Make it your lunch stop. Surprisingly fun. 3) If there’s a highlighted exhibition, see it. At the V&A we saw the Christian Dior retrospective, the biggest Dior show ever staged in the UK and one of a string of exhibitions around the world that reveal Dior’s extraordinary popularity.
Dior’s “New Look” from the 1940s and 1950s.
“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” – Gustav Flaubert
Off the beaten path in London, a reminder of home.
