Last week I flew to Hawaii, scooting out of Aspen just before snow, snow and more snow. Maui will be my sunny slice of paradise until mid-February. For seven years I’ve traveled solo every winter, sharing those journeys, hits and misses, with you.
Blackened Mahi Mahi Salad
Having had my wings clipped the past 2 years and still dealing with Covid regulations, I’m not as breezy about this year’s travel. But pent-up wanderlust won out over Anxious, Reticent and Careful. I’m still carrying around the Careful baggage but taking it on the road.
Raucous roosters are laying claim to Maui’s rural neighborhoods where I live. Residents are crying, ‘fowl.’ Descended from the Red Junglefowl, orphaned by hurricanes, storms and bored chicken farming hobbyists, most locals say it’s nothing to crow about. This Iowa girl loves them.
UNITED ON UNITED
Can we all agree that with any airline it’s a tough ride these days. That’s why I’m sharing this sad but gracious story of a crew and its passengers united in grace.
Just as my plane was taking off from DIA (Denver) for Maui, the pilot did a quick turnaround, landing back at the airport. An elderly man, diabetic, needed medical attention. The only doctor on board, sitting next to me, hurried to help the crew. Shortly after the jet bridge was put in place, the Paramedics boarded our plane. A seizure. A stroke. The gentleman died.
We sat at the Gate for 3 hours. United, DIA and the city of Denver needed to deal with this tragedy by the book. The atmosphere in the cabins was subdued, respectful and throughout the process I heard no grumbling nor one complaint.
Three hours later, the bridge was removed. We departed with the crew putting on smiles, returning to work. Although they appeared to shake it off, this was a young crew, a first-time event for everyone. My seat mate, the only passenger who shared their experience, got busy and spent the flight quietly reassuring each of them they had done everything possible, providing the couple dignity and grace throughout the process.
This is America’s humanity as I know it.
ALOHA, MAUI
Wherever I travel it takes me a week to find my footing but with a little friendly help, I’d call every day since my arrival an adventure.
As I’ve mentioned before, I don’t purchase Starbuck’s pricey java but I do support its Been There Series and have about 40 mugs from the Across the Globe Collection. I found some 100% Kona coffee on my counter when I arrived. I like Kona Brewing Co.’s Big Wave Golden Ale. Leoda’s Pie Shop is an institution in nearby Olowalu. So far I’ve tried Pineapple-Macadamia Nut and this Banana Cream.
This big boy seems happy to share Kaanapali beach with us.
These two books were on my wish list and waiting for me here. Merry Christmas, Mom, from Melissa. Towles’ book is our book club’s choice this winter.
To mention I arrived with no appropriate Hawaiian clothes is an understatement. I’ve scrambled to put together a wardrobe. Today it’s “shopping for pants day.” Black capris, heavy material, no, just no.
Maui sugarcane company HC&G harvested its last 36,000 acres of cane five years ago but sugar sticks, smoothies, the like, are still sold in local farmer’s markets, food trucks and roadside stands. Grown and Delivered by pickup truck in Maui.
The good news: This seed capsule is gorgeous and when dried, is a crafter’s delight. The bad news: The Autograph Tree is one of the most invasive plants in Hawaii It is an epiphyte on its host tree and eventually kills it.
If you want to see more Maui photos, check out my hirschfrench Instagram #mauilife daily photo. Beginning with Ceviche (first photo above), I’ll get back to making and posting recipes in my next blog. My friend, Leslie, is making Opakapaka for Christmas Eve dinner so maybe she’ll let me share some pictures with you.
Wherever you live, please be joyful and stay healthy over the holidays.
How was your Thanksgiving? If happiness is homemade, I hope your plate was loaded with memorable, familiar food and gratitude for it. While my family was celebrating in four different places last Thursday, we all went to bed well-fed, warm, safely in our homes/dorms and healthy. That means everything.
Red Lentil and Butternut Squash Soup
MOVING ON … IT’S TIME TO TRAVEL
Miniature Vegetables from our Valley’s Two Roots Farm. Hotel Jerome, Prospect Restaurant
Before I introduce the amazing Red Lentil & Butternut Squash Soup that will be your lifeline to survive December, here’s some news. (I’ll be brief.)
Do you like board games? I’m a fan which my friend Frances Ginsberg knew. She suggested I order Wingspan. Although one person can play this game (I do) it will be great with a group.
During The Great Plague of 1665-66, Sir Isaac Newton, a 22-year old student at Trinity College, stayed at home to avoid the sickness. While there he invented Calculus and discovered the Laws of Gravity and Optics. While I’ve not risen to Newton’s level, during the past 19 months of pretty constant isolation I’ve finally accepted the reality this virus is the world’s newest resident.
These three books are all worth reading. Although two are fiction, “The Dressmakers of Auschwitz” is non-fiction, brutal and tough. Be warned.
Most of my friends came to this reality long before me, resuming a near-normal albeit safe Lifestyle. I’ve envied them. I wasn’t brave enough nor ready. Now I’ve decided, if not now, when?
LIST:
Two Vaccination Shots; Check.
Booster; Check.
Flu Shot; Check.
Annual Physical; Passed.
KN95 Masks; Ample Supply.
Antigen Quick Tests; 5.
Who knew frozen water and asphalt could create such a lovely image? Thank you, Jane Carey, for spotting this as I was about to tramp over it.
For a dry run, last Monday I drove to Denver to see the Whistler to Cassat, American Painters in France Exhibit at the newly, spectacularly renovated Denver Art Museum. It was a beautifully mounted, thoughtful show and will be up until March 13. Such a joy to see.
Since that three-day trip went well, next week I am leaving to spend 8 weeks in Hawaii. Michael and I went to those gorgeous islands many times. I want to re-visit the memories one more time. In mid-February I’ll repack my bags and fly to Paris for 6 weeks. This has not been an easy winter schedule to organize but I did my best…..and will share it all with you.
I’m not much of a souvenir shopper but I used to pick up Starbuck’s mugs at cities and countries we visited. I have about 40. Former Saudi Airlines pilot Jim Cain used to bring me mugs from the Middle East. He is gone now but pre-Covid, his wife, Karen, used to stop by, we’d grab those mugs, pour some coffee and remember Jim.
Red Lentil & Butternut Squash Soup (possibly a Martha Stewart recipe)
The red lentils don’t retain their color. The squash and lentils are both softened and can be puréed to the degree you wish.
“Really good soup! The lentils cut the sweetness of the butternut squash…just right.” Donna Chase
I made two versions of this delicious soup using chicken broth and then vegetarian broth. Quite honestly I thought the vegetarian which I made for my friend, Donna, was more flavorful than the chicken. In a hurry? Buy cut-up frozen squash in a bag. Although I prefer my soup a bit chunky (I call it rough), you can purée this to a smooth texture.
INGREDIENTS:
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 cups (2 pounds) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into one-inch pieces
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
11/4 teaspoons table salt, divided
1/4 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper to taste
1 large shallot, sliced thin
3 garlic cloves, sliced thin
1 cup dried red lentils, picked over and rinsed
5 cups chicken broth (or, vegetable broth)
1/4 cup plain Greek yogurt
Chopped pecans or walnuts, a dab of Greek yogurt and dash of smoked paprika for topping.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees.Toss squash, 1 tablespoon oil, smoked paprika, 1/2 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp pepper together on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until squash is well-browned and tender, about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile heat 2 Tsp. olive oil in a Dutch Oven over medium heat until shimmering. Once the oil is hot add the shallot and garlic and sauté just until soft, about 3 minutes. Add shallot and garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add remaining tsp smoked paprika and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the red lentils, broth remaining salt and pepper bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for about15 minutes until the lentils are completely broken down.
Stir squash into lentil mixture, blend with an immersion blender until smooth (add up to 1 Tbs water as needed to thin soup). Season with salt and pepper to taste Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.
Combine Greek yogurt 1 Tbs water, remaining 1 Tbs oil, and remaining 1/4 tsp salt in small bowl. Serve the soup dolloped with yogurt mixture, sprinkled with smoked paprika and drizzled with extra oil.
I made cornbread to eat with the soup. With the leftover or stale cornbread, make croutons or during the holidays, make stuffing.
Tart Cherry Buttermilk Scones, also a great taste with this soup-.
MAPLE-BROWN BUTTER-PUMPKIN LOAF with CINNAMON BUTTER
In today’s post we’re going to skip the tricks, not even begin a conversation and just concentrate on the treat. With apologies to other pumpkin bread recipes, it’s time they step aside. Why is this pumpkin loaf so special? What starts with brown butter and ends with slathering softened maple-cinnamon butter on top packs a (pumpkin) punch!
Happy Halloween, Loyal Readers.
This recipe works. A fail is not possible.
In Colorado we can’t decide if it’s Indian Summer, Autumn or Winter. This week Mother Nature chose winter which translates to Independence Pass being closed to cars.
MAPLE-BROWN BUTTER-PUMPKIN LOAF with CINNAMON BUTTER adapted from Kayla, The Original Dish
YIELD: 1 10x5x3”Loaf Pan
INGREDIENTS
MAPLE-BROWN BUTTER-PUMPKIN LOAF
1 stick (¼ lbs) unsalted butter
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour*
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 ½ tsp baking soda
1 ½ tsp kosher salt
1 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs, room temperature
1 (15 oz) can pure pumpkin puree
½ cup sour cream
½ cup maple syrup
2 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts (optional)
CINNAMON BUTTER
1 sticks (½ lb) unsalted butter, softened
1/2-1 tbsp maple syrup with warm maple syrup, for drizzling (optional)
2 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp kosher salt
Before I began dismantling my kitchen in anticipation of winter rentals, I made a last, nice meal, Provencal Beef Daube with Italian Egg Noodles. Similar to Beef Bourguignon which features mushrooms, baby onions and carrots that are cooked separately and then added to the stew, a daube is flavored with spices like cloves, oranges and olives and cooked with the veggies and meat.
INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Generously grease a 91/2-10x5x3” loaf pan with butter.
Melt the butter stick to a 2 qt saucepan over medium heat. Turn the heat to medium-low and continue to cook until the butter is browned, swirling often, about 6 minutes. Once deeply golden brown with dark brown speckles running throughout, turn off the heat to let the butter cool for about 5 minutes.
3. Combine the flour, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt in a small mixing bowl. Whisk to combine.
4. Put sugar in a separate bowl. Whisk in the cooled brown butter until smooth. Crack the eggs into the bowl and beat with a mixer or hand mixer well.
5. Add in the pumpkin puree, sour cream, maple syrup, and vanilla extract one at a time, mixing until smooth between each addition. Working in batches, sprinkle in the dry ingredients, mixing gently until smooth. Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan.
Ready for the oven.
6. Bake in the oven on the middle rack for 1 hour and 10 minutes, or until a small knife inserted comes out just barely dry (there should be no runny batter left, but there should still be moisture). Cover the bread with a piece of foil and let sit for 10 minutes.
7. Remove the foil and allow the pumpkin bread to fully cool in the pan. When fully cooled, run a sharp knife around the edges of the pan and carefully remove. Cut into slices and serve with a swoosh of cinnamon butter (recipe below) on top and an extra drizzle of warm maple syrup, if desired.
CINNAMON BUTTER
When the loaf came out of the oven, had cooled a bit but was still warm, I brushed some cinnamon butter on top to give it more flavor and a shiny look like a glaze.
1. Combine the softened butter, maple syrup, cinnamon, and salt in a food processor or mixing bowl.
This loaf tastes (and, cuts) even better the following day. Make the cinnamon butter at your convenience.
Blend until fully incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
To Serve: You can serve this bread at room temperature or heated for about 10-15 seconds in the microwave.
To Store: Wrap the cooled bread tightly with plastic wrap and store at room temperature for approximately 3-4 days. Store the cinnamon butter in an airtight container in the fridge. Allow the butter to soften at room temperature before serving.
To Soften Butter: Allow the butter to sit out at room temperature until soft to the touch, usually a couple of hours, depending on the temperature of the room.*
*Note: If baking at high-altitude, I recommend using King Arthur or Hungarian High Altitude Flour.
Saturday morning I received a FaceTime Call from Emma, my college junior. “Hi Gramma, I just called to see how you’re Celebrating You today?”
Believing I was Celebrating Me by opting out of applying make-up, forgetting to comb my hair and on my 3rd cup of very dark roast, “Uh, Emma,” I asked, “why should I be Celebrating Me?”
Remembering she was live on FaceTime, forbidden to Eyeball Roll her grandmother, she went with the exasperated sigh. “Grandma, it’s your b-i-r-t-h-d-a-y month. You must Celebrate You every single day,” she replied seriously.
My Newest Gougères by Dorie Greenspan, Everyday Dorie cookbook
Racking my memory, quite sure I’d never celebrated me for 31 straight days, I decided this was something new she’d learned in college. “Enlighten me,” I suggested.
She proceeded to explain. Ending our call, I called up Mr. Google. Self Celebration is not new. Now, however, it’s been enthusiastically embraced by the 72 million Gen Z’ers born between 1997-2019. I even found a link to 100 Ways to Celebrate You. Says Oprah, “The more you praise and celebrate your life, the more there is in life to celebrate.”
Realizing I am about 6 decades late to the party, if Emma wants to celebrate her grandmother, I won’t argue. Surprisingly this exercise has already made my days richer, more meaningful.
Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped.
Shared by a friend in Paris.
DAY 8, Friday : CELEBRATING DORIE
Although I’ve provided Days 1-7 examples below to encourage you to Celebrate You, birthday or not, let’s begin with Day 8.
There’s a stack of reasons to celebrate Dorie Greenspan. First, it’s her birthday month also. Her 14th cookbook, Baking with Dorie: Sweet, Salty & Simple, will hit my mailbox on October 19th. In 2010, my joining French Fridays with Dorie, a virtual cooking group cooking through Dorie’s Around My French Table, provided the footing, support and friendship needed to begin rebuilding a life.
Today I baked gougères, cream puff look-alikes but not sweet. The dough is the same, pâte à choux, but these are cheesy. Gougères are the first thing I baked after joining FFWD in 2010. Today I’m baking them again only using Dorie’s newer recipe, My Newest Gougères, from Everyday Dorie. It’s a simpler recipe (below) but just as tasty.
Dorie has often written about gougères in her books, articles and The NYT Magazine. The past 20 years when she and her husband, Michael, entertain, she serves this little dreamy puffball as an appetizer. I know that’s true. Recently I’ve been spending my winters in Paris. Once, when Dorie knew my Aspen friends were in Paris, she invited us to dinner. “However many are visiting,” she said, “bring them all.”
The view from the balcony. Although I believe the Eiffel Tower is lit up every night now, it only flashed on the hour at that time.
An evening for the memory book
The short version. We cleaned our plates! We left their apartment at 12:30 am after jumping up from the table on the hour to watch the tour Eiffel’s light show. (Dorie and Michael, charming hosts, were amused.) Their balcony view started from the Arc de Triomphe to the tour Eiffel to the The Dôme des Invalides. Awestruck. An amazing evening.
CELEBRATING ME, Days 1-7(my version )
Here’s an example of my first 7 days. Predictable, quirky and courageous (#7). Your turn.
Day 1, Saturday, October 1st: Looking a bit weary but glad to be here. We’ve all been Celebrating Women 50-some years. Longtime friends gathered to support the young organizers of the Women’s March.
Day 2, Sunday: Finding Joy today with my monthly Zoom Call with 6 childhood friends. Since Covid began, we’ve pulled up 70 years of memories, offered support and mourned the loss of one of us. RIP Carol.
Day 3, Monday: Dazzled by the High Country’s glorious Fall splendor. Patrolled in Ashcroft with my partner, Deb, who hadn’t yet packed her uniform away!!! And, haven’t missed many chances to walk through the Northstar Preserve
Northstar Preserve
Day 4: Celebrating my Mother’s birthday by baking a mini-Apple Crisp, something I can’t replicate.
Day 5: Let’s go quirky…..I wrote down 5 of my Life’s major mistakes, those I regret the most, failures I have dwelled on forever. Did any Good result from them, that lemonade/lemon-thing? Yes, I realize. Forgiving. transformational.
Day 6: Coupling with Day 5. From this day forward, determined to cut myself some slack, eliminate all expectations of perfection and just enjoy the journey. (I’m talking to you, French Language Proficiency.)
Day 7: I always promised when my bum knee diminishes my lifestyle, stops me from activities I love, I’d take care of it. This summer my knee said, “I’m done.” Yesterday I Celebrated Me by scheduling a Knee Replacement. Steroid and Gel shots will get me through the winter in Hawaii and Paris with my operation already scheduled for April. My surgeon promises to have me ready for the 2022’s Forest Conservancy’s opening day.
The Pitkin County Library has been every reader’s savior during Covid and the Pandemic. Thank you dear and special librarians for your service. I read “Hero of Two Worlds, the Marquis de Lafayette” (nf) with”The Women of Chateau Lafayette” (f) to realize my grasp of history is lacking in some areas. “The Paris Library” is about our American Library , which I’ve visited several times, during WW 2. (F) “Damnation Spring” is about lumbering in the Northwest. Just getting started but I like it. (F). I bought “Braiding Sweetgrass” by Botanist Robin Wall Kimmerer. It links Indigenous Wisdom with Scientific Knowledge and the Teaching of Plants. I am anxious to begin this book.
COOK THE BOOK FRIDAYS
My Newest Gougères, Dorie Greenspan, EVERYDAY DORIE,
Yield: about 55 (small), 35 (large)
Ingredients:
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup water
1 stick unsalted butter (8 TBS), cut into four pieces
1 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup all purpose flour
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1 large egg white, at room temperature
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard (preferably French)
2 cups coarsely grated cheese such as Compté, Gruyère cheese or sharp cheddar
2/3 cup walnuts or pecans lightly toasted and chopped
Directions:
Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat it to 425 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
Bring the milk, water, butter and salt to a boil over high heat in a medium saucepan. Add the flour all at once, lower the heat and immediately start stirring energetically with a heavy spoon or whisk. The dough will form a ball and there’ll be a light film on the bottom of the pan. Keep stirring for another 2 minutes or so to dry the dough. Dry dough will make puffy puffs.
Turn the dough into the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or work by hand with a wooden spoon and elbow grease). Let the dough sit for a minute, then add the eggs one by one, followed by the white, beating until each egg is incorporated before adding the next. The dough may look as though it’s separating or falling apart but just keep working; by the time the white goes in, the dough will be beautiful.
Beat in the mustard, followed by the cheese and the walnuts. Give the dough a last mix-through by hand.
Scoop or spoon out the dough, using a small cookie scoop (11/2 teaspoons). If you’d like larger puffs, shape them with a tablespoon or medium-size cookie scoop. Drop the dough onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches between each mound. (The dough can be scooped and frozen on baking sheets at this point.)
Slide the baking sheets into the oven and immediately turn the oven temperature down to 375 degrees F. Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom.
Continue baking until the gougeres are puffed, golden and firm enough to pick up, another 15 to 20 minutes. Serve immediately—these are best directly from the oven.
MAKING AHEAD: These puffs can be made ahead. Keep the scooped puffs in the freezer, ready-to-bake. Scoop the puffs and freeze them on a parchment-lined baking sheet or cutting board until firm, then pack them airtight. Bake them straight from the freezer, giving them a few more minutes of heat.
S T O R I N G : The puffs are best soon after they come out of the oven and nice (if flatter) at room temperature that same day. If you want to keep baked puffs, freeze them and then reheat them in a 350-degree-F oven for a few minutes.
Each year, in late September, I take inventory of what’s tucked away in my pantry, hanging out on my shelves and threatening freezer burn in my fridge. As diligent as one tries to be, aren’t we all guilty of buying more than we need and using less than we can? But when I leave my condo each winter, like Old Mother Hubbard, my cupboards are (must be) bare.
SALADE NICOISE
Over time, and this is my eighth year of winter travels, I’ve turned the chore of ‘What do I want to eat tonight?’ into ‘What can I eat tonight?’ My palate is only limited by what I have on hand. It’s a game I play with myself.
Admittedly, I do sometimes suffer buyer’s remorse. Why in the world did I buy a quart of Chinkiang Vinegar or 26-oz. can of whole Jalapeño Peppers or 30-oz. jar of coconut oil during a Pandemic when I’m only cooking for One?
Shana, Stephen and I are about ready to close down our second year of bagging vegetables from Two Roots Farm for local Pitkin County Seniors. I’ll miss my Thursday-morning pals. Hopefully, same time next year? (And, yes, we mask-up.)
What causes me no remorse, however, is the abundance of fresh garden vegetables and fruits available from our valley’s farmers. The farmers markets and CSA boxes are harvest-rich, overflowing with produce right now. Because some of my bounty was nearing its use it or lose it limit, I needed to get serious about not wasting it. That’s how Classic Bistro Salads Week became a reality.
WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU CARROTS…..
Make Carottes Râpées
When Life gives you carrots, make Carottes Râpées. Had enough with the Beets? Icy sliced red onions, chunky roasted beets and a tangy vinaigrette play well together with grilled meats, soups or a baguette sandwich. For lunch? Lose the onion and bring greens, grapes, Roquefort and walnuts on board. Here’s a tip…fresh radishes, sea salt and butter. Delicious. Céleri rémoulade is addictive. And, who can’t stand and cheer for Salad Niçoise?
Celery Root – When Michael and I had our large garden at our Silver King Drive home, I actually grew Celery Root for our Contractor/Friend Gerd Zeller. He told me his Mother, who came here from Germany, did magical things with this vegetable. I usually could hand off 5-6 large bulbs to him.
Céleri rémoulade and Chunky Beets & Red Onions.
The unexpected bonus of pulling together these bistro classics were the memories which came alive with each meal and snack. I hope this post brings to mind food memories from your travels.wherever they may have been. Bon Appétit
On most days I walk either to our local market or the library. My shortcut is purposely down this alley so I can walk by this home. A happy house, for sure.
You can take the Girl out of Iowa but you can’t take Iowa out of the Girl.
With Love, Friendship & Appreciation to Dorie Greenspan for her support and encouragement to my becoming more skillful at my own french table. And, to my French Fridays with Dorie colleagues for ten years of friendship, support and memories. May it continue…
This cookbook is tattered and torn. The binding may be, ahem, separated from the contents. The pages are stained. Do I even catch a whiff of garlic? They call it cookbook love.
Chunky Beets & Icy Red Onions from Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan
Serves 4
Thinly slice one red onion, toss into a bowl of icy water before sticking in fridge. Roast a pound of beets, peel and slice into 1/2-inch cubes. Mix together 1 tsp. Dijon mustard, 1 tsp. honey, 1 TBS extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss the cubed beets together with the vinaigrette. Chill for at least an hour. When ready to serve, fold in minced parsley, adjust s/p, drain the sliced onions and sprinkle them on on top of salad.
Although often served individually, you’ll sometimes find Salade de Crudités (raw salads) on the menu. This trilogy of salads, Carottes râpées, Céleri rémoulade and radishes with butter and salt, is a popular starter. The butter-filled radishes are shown in my first photo.
Note the Radishes with Butter and Sea Salt. The Baguette is a Jambon-Beurre, a ham sandwich.
Carottes râpées (grated carrot salad) from Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan
Serves 4
1 pound carrots, peeled and trimmed 2 TBS Dijon mustard 1 TBS honey 1/4 Cup cider vinegar 1/2 C canola or grapeseed oil Salt & Pepper Currants or Raisins Use the large holes on a box grater to grate the carrots. In a small jar, mix the Dijon, honey, cider vinegar and oil together. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and shake until well combined. Pour dressing over salad. Toss with handfuls of currants raisins. (If you wish to add chopped roasted walnuts and/or chopped parsley, now is the time.) Season again if needed and serve.
Céleri rémoulade from My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz
Serves 4
This is a strongly-flavored salad of raw celery root sticks tossed in a creamy mayonnaise and Dijon dressing with bits of tangy cornichons. David’s recipe and explanatory essay is the best I’ve read. The Link is here:
If we were playing by the rules, a Niçoise is a “composed” salad, with each ingredient artfully arranged on a plate in separate little piles, then drizzled with the dressing. Of all the classic French salads, this is probably the most abused and altered. But the Niçoise has “good bones” and is very supple.
This is Dorie’s recipe but you can add, subtract, improvise and create as you wish.
Niçoise Salade from Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan
Yield: serves 4
Ingredients: 12 small potatoes, scrubbed and boiled until easily pierced with a knife (about 10-20 minutes) Blanch two generous handfuls of green beans in potato water until they are crisp-tender (about 4 minutes) 4 hard-boiled eggs 2 jars or tins tuna (4 – 6 oz. each), packed in olive oil salad greens cherry tomatoes or regular tomatoes cut into chunks small olives (Niçoise, but any will do) capers (drained and patted dry) anchovies (rinsed and patted dry)
Shallot Vinaigrette Mix together:
2 Tbsp. wine vinegar (red or white or sherry1 shallot, finely minced ¼ tsp. Dijon mustard a couple pinches sea salt a couple grinds of fresh black pepper 4 – 5 Tbsp. olive oil
