IRISH SODA BREAD vs. CARDBOARD, A BAD RAP

IRISH SODA BREAD vs. CARDBOARD, A BAD RAP

Don’t you just love to be vindicated in your rightness?  The issue was Irish Soda Bread vs. Cardboard.  Since ISB is this week’s Tuesday with Dorie Baking with Julia recipe choice, I stood firmly (and, alone) in the beleaguered bread’s corner. My family crowded themselves into the opposite one.  Now, look below at my first photo, snapped as I pulled the  ISB loaf out of the oven. Add butter and preserves. Is there any question who carried the day?

And, the Winner is Irish Soda Bread.

Moral of the Story: Never bet against Dorie, Julia, and the Lady of this House (me).

ISB is just four ingredients. Most important is the non-perishable bicarbonate of soda (ie bread soda), developed and introduced in Ireland in the early 1800s. Since most Irish families had no ovens, this meant they could make bread in a bastible (lidded, cast-iron pot), laid onto the turf fire. With buttermilk from Bossy the Cow, wheat from their fields for the flour, and salt, an Irish family, for the first time, could make good bread very cheaply every day.

FOUR Ingredients: Flour, Baking Soda, Salt and Buttermilk

I mixed one cup of raisins, a non-traditional addition, into the dough.

 

It’s easy to put together the dough which is sticky, soft and malleable. It’s more difficult to turn the dough onto the lightly floured work surface and NOT knead it to death. Think: one minute, knead gently. Ça suffit.

Continuing in the gentleness-mode, pat the dough into a 6-inch disk and slide onto a greased pan or baking sheet. Slash a 1/2-inch deep  “X”  across the top. The reason for the slash? Take your pick: a religious symbol; to let the fairies escape; to let the devil out; or, to more easily expand and divide into four quarters. As for me, I’m going with the fairy theory.

Ready for a 350-degree oven

“X” marks the loaf.

 

Three-hundred–fifty degrees and fifty minutes later, the bread was golden brown, the “X” had expanded, and the fairies had flown. Here is when I totally broke the rules. Although Dorie suggests we allow the bread to cool , I decided bragging rights were far more important. Not a crumble was lost in the slicing. Breakfast was glorious. I tried not to gloat.

To Let It Cool or Not To Let It Cool, that is the question????

Not a crumb in sight

 

Here, I think, is the reason ISB gets such a bad rap. Because there is so little fat in this bread, it turns, Dorie explains, “as hard as the Blarney Stone” by the end of the day. For this reason, I wrapped up the remaining 1/2 loaf, grabbed a slicing knife, butter and preserves and dashed to my nearby beauty shop. It was St. Patrick’s Day, after all. I saw there was enough bread to share with all six beauticians and their clients before disappearing into a room with Christine for my own manicure.

What followed, that next hour, was a steady stream of visitors, all throwing accolades and food memories my way.  One gal, eyes a-puddle, stepped into the room. “I am channeling my Mother and all the years I spent with her in the kitchen making Irish Soda Bread,” she said. “She has been gone three years but I remember her making it every St. Patrick’s Day.  Back East, we’re all Irish, we even have two Irish cops in the family.”

When I asked how mine differed from her mother’s, she replied, as she started to leave the room. “There’s no difference. It’s identical, even the aroma. That’s why I’’m leaving right now…….to cry.”

All in all, it was the perfect bread for the perfect day.

All women become like their mothers. That is their tragedy. No man does. That’s his.   Oscar Wilde, an Irishman

A perfect Slice

To see other Tuesday with Dorie Baking with Julia chefs, go to  http://tuesdayswithdorie.wordpress.com/. To see the ISB recipe posted by our TWD Hosts Cathy and Carla, go to their terrific web sites:    http://myculinarymission.blogspot.com/ and  http://chocolatemoosey.blogspot.com/.

THE SOUFFLÉ ALSO RISES, FRENCH FRIDAYS with Dorie

THE SOUFFLÉ ALSO RISES, FRENCH FRIDAYS with Dorie

Lumière, the character who adds a spark to “Beauty & The Beast”,  disney-clipart.com

Preparing a Feast for Belle and the Beast, Lumière and his Cup Chorus,  infamouskidd.com

 

Be our guest! Be our guest!  Put our service to the test. Tie your apron ‘round your neck, cherie, and we’ll provide the rest. Don’t believe me? Ask the dishes. They can sing, they can dance. After all, Miss, this is France. Beef ragout, cheese soufflé, pie and pudding “en flambe”. We’ll prepare and serve with flair, a culinary cabaret!”  Lumière & Chorus, Beauty & the Beast.

Who doesn’t remember Belle’s first dinner in the Beast’s castle? Lumière’s menu was on target. A soufflé announces itself. Élégance at its most high-brow.

When I think of myself, élégance and high-brow don’t come to mind. I met this week’s recipe choice, however, with a feeling of determination and a “What the hell?” attitude, more my style. With Dorie’s pushing, prodding and reminder, “There’s nothing complicated about the dish, although there are three things you should know,” ringing in my ears, I triumphed.

Dorie’s recipe, to my mind, is a classic, using techniques most of us already have in our culinary skill set. Although mine are a bit rusty, it wasn’t hard to put the soufflé together. Nerve-racking, yes. Difficult, no.

A savory souffle usually begins with a béchamel sauce, enriched with egg yolks. The egg whites are later whipped and folded in, to lighten the mixture. For the cheese, I chose a 8-ounce chunk of well-aged gruyère and grated it, easily and to perfection, in my food processor.

Béchamel Sauce

Béchamel Sauce, enriched with egg yolks and grated cheese

 

I initially introduced one-third of the whipped whites into the béchamel sauce, and then delicately folded in the rest. That step is difficult for those of us who tend to be heavy-handed. I was careful, also, to delicately turn the batter into a soufflé dish coated with butter and bread crumbs.

Ready to fold the last of the whipped egg whites into the batter.

The soufflé dish, coated in butter and lightly dusted with breadcrumbs

 

Since a soufflé is baked at high heat and must be “left alone” to rise, I waited 25 minutes before opening the oven, sliding a piece of aluminum foil over the top to prevent further browning. (If you recall, I am currently in a rental home with a temperamental oven.) After a total of 40 minutes, it was well-risen, firm to the touch and jiggly at the center. Although it had browned more than I would have liked, it did not affect the taste. In fact, I loved the crusty topping.

Table-ready. Move quickly and carefully.

Life is Good………….

 

All we really needed to make this dinner complete was two spoons!  Knowing Dorie would probably disapprove, I added roasted asparagus, the first picking purchased at the local farmer’s market, threw a warmed baguette on the table, and poured Harmonie, a Paso Robles white table wine. This is a lovely, light blend of Chardonnary, White Reisling and Muscat Canelli produced by Harmony Cellars, a small winery on California’s central coast. Perfect  We even enjoyed it for breakfast the next morning with croissants and raspberry jam. Warmed leftovers, even better!

Once again, Dorie was right in saying, “Really, the soufflé should be ashamed of itself, scaring off cooks for no good reason! There’s nothing complicated about the dish.”  To see how other Doristas fared with their own soufflé drama, go to http://www.frenchfridayswithdorie.com/   Oh, about Dorie’s three secrets to souffle perfection? Buy her book: “Around my French Table, more than 300 recipes from my home to yours”.  (Page 150.)   It costs about the same price  as a pound of the cave-aged gruyére I used in this recipe.

The cheese soufflé, safely to the table without deflating

French Fridays with Dorie – Mustard Bâtons

French Fridays with Dorie – Mustard Bâtons

I’ve gone rogue this week, definitely am off message.  Mustard Bâtons is not the recipe scheduled for today. Forgive me French Friday Foodies, never again, pinkie swear.  But, I just arrived for a month’s stay in my Aspen condo, drove through a snowstorm in Utah to get here, and found my kitchen presently ill-equipped for cooking.  Dorie’s Bâtons are 5-ingredient hor d’oeuvres with a sublime kick and an easy preparation. Variations, galore. Freeze like champs. I’ll pair Sancerre with these delightful strips of goodness, throw my long-time Aspen friends in the mix and revel in my own “Rocky Mountain High”.  Merci, Ms. Greenspan.