According to the National Resources Defense Council, an amazing 40% of our country’s food is thrown out every year. Now that you’ve digested that number, here’s another. The cost of that wastage translates to a whopping $165 billion.
Seems crazy, doesn’t it, that almost fifty million Americans do not have access to enough food every day. Seventeen million of those are children. For seniors, the number, 10% to 11%, is rising quickly. Welcome, Boomers.
If you’re wondering what this had to do with today’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe choice,Christine’s Simple Party Soups, here’s the deal. Dorie’s Parisian friend, Christine Vasseur, serves an exquisite hors d’oeuvre triumvirate of pureed soups. Each vegetable, asparagus, red pepper and broccoli, stars in its own soup extravaganza. Served together, in their individual shot glass and topped with a dollop of spiced whipped cream, this is sure to impress any guest. Oh, yes, three spoons, please.
Christine’s simple party soups, asparagus, red pepper and broccoli (foreground) as pictured in Dorie Greenspan’s, “Around My French Table.” Photo by Alan Richardson
Still with me? My only resolution this year is to eliminate waste in my kitchen. Since I’ve not yet adjusted to cooking for One, I either give away or toss away too many of my extras. My garbage sends me on a guilt trip. That’s why this week I decided to make only one soup, the tangy, electric-red, cream-coifed bell pepper soup variety. My Dorista colleagues will be making the additional asparagus and broccoli soups so visit them at this link.
I even cut the red pepper soup recipe in half but still managed to make three different variations of it by adding shrimp to one portion and raspberries to the other. I usedtiny canned cocktail shrimp in one. For the second, I made Chilled Red Pepper-Raspberry Soup, Dorie’s Bonne Idée She nails it when remarking, ‘the berries add both acidity and mystery to the flavor.’
Spiced cream-topped Red Pepper Soup
Because this delightful first course can be made the day before (add the shrimp at the last moment) and served hot or cold, here are my suggestions for making all three reds for your Valentine’s or next dinner party. Pour the soups into demitasse cups or tall shot glasses and let your guests – who may want to try more than one kind – decide which most tantalizes their taste buds. A conversation starter, whether in the living room or at the dinner table.
Chilled Red Pepper-Raspberry Soup
Here’s a tip. Since I enjoy a thicker soup than Dorie, more bite in each spoonful, I used a ratio of one cup of liquid to one cored and seeded plump pepper. While you can easily add liquid to any soup, it’s more difficult to add thickness.
You can find the recipes for all three soups here. The technique is simple and the same for all three vegetables. Cook each in its own broth (vegetable, chicken, or even bouillon cubes with water), bring first to a boil and then let simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Liquefy the mixture in your blender, pour into the container of your choice and plop some frothy, spiced whipped cream on top. Voila!
Red-pepper with Shrimp Soup
Tonight I will finish my red pepper with shrimp soup for dinner. A FFWD week with no leftovers. Hooray, yahoo, give this gal a gold star.
French Friday’s with Dorie is an international cooking group working its way through Dorie Greenspan’s “Around my French Table, more than 300 recipes from my home to yours.”
This week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe choice is Pommes au Four, baked apples filled with fruits and nuts. My first thought? Who can’t bake an apple? In Iowa, when I was a kid, we picked apples at the local orchard, hauled them home and helped Mom turn them into sauce, pie, crisp, cake, salad and, yes, baked.
But readers, this is an apple like no other. In Dorie’s words, “Baked apples are less a recipe than a construction: you core some apples, stuff their hollows with dried fruits, nuts, honey and butter, and then slide them into the oven. Which fruits and nuts? It’s up to you. Cinnamon or no cinnamon? Again, your choice. Hot? Warm? Chilled. with heavy cream? No one will tell you definitely.”
I made this recipe last week-end just before leaving for California. I enjoyed it hot, warm and chilled, with crème fraîche. I even diced up the leftovers to use as a topping for my oatmeal. If you follow the recipe carefully, Pommes au Four are simple to bake and delicious to eat.
I baked my apples in Aspen but am writing this post in Cambria, my winter home for the next three-and-a-half months. Yesterday I moved into our family’s rental house and, admittedly am enjoying the roominess. Although I’ve made peace with my 940-square foot Colorado condo, this house is nice, quiet and, sorta like this week’s baked apples, a real treat.
My biggest treat, however, will be seeing my nearby family more often. In their last e-mails to me, Emma, my blond, 12-year-old granddaughter, announced that the tips of her hair are now dyed pink! Her sister, Clara, who is 10, wrote that she is negotiating with the neighbors to rent hen space in their chicken coop. To my mind, my daughter, Melissa, who is their mother, has either lost her mind or loosened her grip. I need to check in on Family Place to find out. (If it’s the latter, Ms. Clara and I are going to go purchase one great big noisy hen.)
On my first day in Cambria I spotted a herd of the normally elusive zebras, a remaining bloodline from William Randolph Hearst’s zoo, grazing in the pastures along Highway 1 near his castle at San Simeon. A good omen, for sure. Note the dry meadow. This area needs moisture. Please, Mother Nature.
If you’re interested in seeing how other Doristas peeled their apples this week? Go, here.
New Year’s Eve Fireworks in Aspen, 8:00p.m. photo:Aspen Daily News
Last week-end Trevor Kensey who posts at Sis.Boom.Blog. and I were exchanging holiday e-mails. He asked what I was doing on New Year’s Eve. I didn’t respond. While I’m the first to celebrate holidays and special occasions with gusto, Auld Lang Syne at midnight, not so much.
After 9:00pm the world turns without me. If that means turning the page of another year, so be it. My plan, as always, was to have a nice, rather late dinner (that’s 7:00pm) and crawl into bed with my favorite book. Presently it’s Lawrence in Arabia by Scott Anderson. But that rascal, Father Time, is full of surprises. Trevor, my evening was a blast. So, listen up, my friend, this Post’s for you.
This week’s FFWD recipe choice is Dressy Pasta Risotto. In America we call this Macaroni & Cheese.
This week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe choice is Dressy Pasta “Risotto”. As Dorie admits, there is nothing risotto-ish about this dish. It’s a fancy French version of the American classic, mac & cheese. Now, in truth, creamy pasta dishes originated in northern Europe and caught the palate of Thomas Jefferson when he made his Grand Tour (1784-1789). In 1802, as president, he served mac & cheese at a state dinner. In 1937 Kraft introduced it in a box. At our house my mother made the most fabulous m&c with Velveeta. Ohhhh, that yummy toasty crust on top.
Dorie’s version adds chicken broth, heavy cream, mascarpone, and freshly grated Parmesan (ya gotta love the French) to the traditional chopped onions and elbow macaroni. It’s easily tossed together and made in a skillet over medium heat on the stove top in 30 minutes. Delicious. I paired it with my favorite Old-fashioned Meat Loaf, a recipe from the April 1994 Gourmet, and homemade corn bread. Be still my heart.
Just as I finished dinner at 8 pm, the traditional NYE fireworks over Aspen Mountain began. Since I live directly east, under the mountain, my balcony was prime real estate for viewing. The display was spectacular and very, very loud. But The Gant’s balconies were jammed, the children, squealing, the adults, whooping and hollering. It was a celebration.
I went to bed, thanked God for a great 2013, asked that 2014 be more of the same, and soon fell asleep. Suddenly……… all hell breaks loose. That bombs-blasting-in-air thing. By the time I got fully awake, pulled my heart back into my chest, I realized it was Midnight. In Aspen, where EXCESS is spelled in capital letters, we now do fireworks twice. Since I’d been gone a decade, I was unprepared for “twice”. But, once again, the balconies were full, the kids, some, frightened, squealing, the adults, whooping and hollering and tooting their horns. And, Trevor, since sleep did not come easily after that, it was one heck of a New Year’s Eve for me. Thanks for asking.
CALIFORNIA-BOUND
This coming week I am going to California to spend the winter. The only negative about moving home to Aspen? My family lives in Calli. I dearly miss the monthly visits, being present for all the girls’ performances and activities that I enjoyed while living in Nevada. The solution, we decided, was to rent a family hang-out on the central coast of California.
On our last visit to Cambria, Stephen considers the possibilities. Our rental house is located nearby.
We picked Cambria, a picturesque little village located on Highway 1 near the spectacular Hearst Castle in San Simeon. If the area is good enough for William Randolph, it’s good enough for me. I first visited Cambria in 2007 when I attended a week-long seminar on the Four Migrations (whales, birds, butterflies and elephant seals). My kids soon joined me and we’ve been enjoying annual visits ever since.
Melissa: “This works.”
They will come to Cambria. I will go to Bishop. Next week, I’ll be posting from California. If you’d like to track where my colleagues are posting from this week, go here.
Our last family visit to Cambria………anticipating many more.
For the past three years, if it’s Friday, I’ve been posting a recipe from Dorie Greenspan’s cookbook, Around my French Table. Cooking-the-book with colleagues from around the world, I’ve had hits, fails, wows and never agains. This week’s effort, Dilled Gravlax with MustardSauce, sugar-and-spice cured-salmon, may be a personal best.
Crush toasted peppercorns, white and black, and coriander seeds with a mortar & pestle
Add sea salt and sugar to the crushed seeds and mix. Poke holes in the skin side of the salmon, rub the mixture into it and top generously with fresh dill.
Gravlax is the traditional party food but it’s just as delicious a breakfast-morning-after. Reluctant to hit the highway after Christmas dinner down valley, I bartered salmon for a sleep-over with my friends, Donna and Bernie. Donna phoned Zabar’s to send some bagels. Ho! Ho! Ho!
Flip the salmon and rub mixture into the flesh (no holes).
Cover with dill.
This was a three-day process. Words cannot describe how luscious and buttery this gravlax tasted. Richness personified. Let’s have pictures tell the story………
Cover tightly with plastic wrap, weight evenly, and refridgerate for 48-72 hours. I found the combo of 3 cans of pumpkin puree, a jar of pickled okra and a pineapple, just perfect.
After 2 to 3 days, scrape the dill and mixture off the salmon, rinse quickly with cold water, dry thoroughly, and refrigerate until ready to slice.
Bernie thinly slices the salmon, cutting on the diagonal, leaving the skin behind. (Please know that Donna and I are standing closely behind giving Bernie directions!)
Bring on the bagels.
A post-Christmas feast, Gravlax with cream cheese, capers, onions and Zabar’s toasted bagels.
The Christmas Dinner table at Chez Chase
A woman’s work is never done.
Ever.
The men enjoy the cocktail hour, of course.
While the women are in the kitchen, the men relax. Ahhhhh
If you’d like to make your own Gravlax, here’s Dorie’s recipe. Interested in seeing the results of other Doristas‘ efforts this week? Go, here.
Spaghetti Carbonara, a classic Italian recipe, was created in the middle of the 20th century. Although it’s origins are unknown, it first appeared in cookbooks after WW II when many Italians were dependent on foods supplied to them by American troops. But eggs and bacon were plentiful and a constant ration. The thrifty Italian housewives soon realized all that was necessary to create a spectacular sauce for a hearty bowl of pasta were small amounts of cream, butter and Parmesan.
Spaghetti & Onion Carbonara
Dorie’s riff on Spaghetti Carbonara is this week’s FFWD choice, Recipe-swap Onion “Carbonara” and we do know it’s origins. This distinctive dish was first created by legendary French chef Michel Richard, with later variations made by American cookbook author Patricia Wells who graciously shared it with her colleague and friend, Dorie.
I used a mandolin to get thinly sliced onions.
If you’re watching your carbs, here’s an Italian dish with none. Zero. While the sauce is the sauce is the sauce, the pasta is replaced by thinly sliced onions, steamed to al dente. This makes an interesting starter or a veggie side to a main course. Steaming the onions is the trick to this dish. Simple. Quick. Tasty.
Steaming the onions is the secret to this delicious recipe. I placed my steaming basket inside a big pot.
Since I’ve never met a carb I didn’t love, I tried Dorie’s Bonne Idee, adding Spaghetti to the Onions Carbonara. (The first picture shows the onion carbonara as a topping for the spaghetti.) Man, it was delicious.
Our Camp Hale & Hearty Tour
A Tenth Mountain Division soldier featured on the cover of POST Magazine. Photo by 14ers.com
Dorie doesn’t often “do” Italian but her timing was perfect this week. Early last Saturday, my friend, Donna Grauer, and I headed 120 miles east to chase history and pay homage at Colorado’s Camp Hale, the training site of the 10th Mountain Division. Located at 9,300 feet, surrounded by the historic mining towns of Leadville, Red Cliff and Minturn, it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1992.
The 10th, created during WW II with 15,000 men in residence, was transformed into an elite high alpine corp – perfecting skiing skills and learning cold weather survival techniques under harsh mountain terrain and conditions. The training was brutal. Imagine climbing to 14,000’ feet on skis or snowshoes while carrying a weapon and 90-pound rucksack on your back.
Soldiers training in the Rockies in 1943. Photo by Denver Public Library Tenth Mountain Resource Center
In January 1945 they were shipped over to Italy to accomplish what other army divisions had failed to do for the previous 6 years – breach the heavily-fortified German Gothic Line located high in the Apennine Mountains. The force successfully scaled a 1,500‘ vertical assent at night while under intense German fire, prevailing in the legendary battles of Riva Ridge, Mount Belvedere, and Mont Gorgolesco. Their ability to take the Po River Valley played a vital role in the liberation of northern Italy. Success came at a terrible loss, however with over 4,000 men being wounded and 1,000 killed during the campaign.
Camp Hale
Camp Hale
Donna and her husband, Bernie, were in Italy this fall and followed the 10th Mountain Division route, climbing both Mt Belevedere and Riva Ridge. While the trip to Camp Hale was moving and thoughtful for me, it was Donna who felt she had come full-circle.
Bernie, standing in a German Bunker on Riva Ridge
Donna, standing at the 10th Mountain Division Memorial on Mt. Belvedere
Wherever you live, there is something special to discover, visit, see and learn. It isn’t much of a stretch to believe that the 10th Mountain Division helped play a role not only in the liberation of Italy but, as a result of that victory, in the Italians’ creation of Spaghetti Carbonara.
The memorial to the 10th Mountain Division in Aspen’s Gondola Plaza. Several 10th Mountain Division veterans returned to Aspen to create, bolster and support the area’s ski industry.
In our family we’re a mixed bag as far as religion is concerned. My husband, Michael, was Jewish. I am Episcopalian. My son-in-law’s father was a Lutheran minister. My daughter finds truth and power in Buddhist principals. My granddaughters attend a Seven Day Adventist school. And just recently, I’ve found hope in the writings of Pope Francis.
If there really is a limb, we’re way out there.
However, the religion and culture that has most impacted my life the past twenty-five years is Judaism. One facet of that impact, of course, is the food of observances and celebrations. Soon after our arrival in Aspen in 1988, Michael and I were embraced by the local Jewish community. I am comforted by knowing he enjoyed the retirement of his dreams here and those friends contributed mightily to that joy.
Mme. Maman’s Chopped Chicken Liver Paté
Which brings me to chopped chicken liver.
This week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe is Mme. Sonia Maman’s Chopped Liver. Although I always contributed food to those parties, I left the chopped liver to the pros. My speciality was Haroses, a mixture of apples, nuts, wine and cinnamon used at Passover Seder. I also participated in the brisket bake-offs. My arm still has the burn marks to prove it.
The chicken liver mixture spread on pumpernickel rye bread
I never had made chopped liver. Kudos to Mme. Maman for substituting a heart-healthier peanut (or, grapeseed) oil for the traditional schmaltz which is rendered chicken fat. Her recipe is simple. Cook 2 chopped onions in oil until nicely browned. Remove the onions from the pan to drain and add the chicken livers to brown also. Because I wanted a paté rather than coarsely chopped livers, I threw the onions, livers, and seasonings into the food processor and did the blitz. After stirring two chopped hard-boiled eggs into the mixture, I covered it tightly before placing in the fridge.
Although this is tasty (and, I took a bite), I realized this stuff could kill you. That’s when I called Mindy, one of my younger, health-conscious Jewish friends to ask if chopped livers graced her table and those of her friends. Her distaste for chicken livers came through humorously but loud and clear.
Vegetarian Chopped Liver, a healthier alternative and mighty tasty
“Would you like me to send you my vegetarian version?” she asked. “It’s almost, almost as good as the real thing. Whenever I make it, it’s always eaten up.”
She quickly e-mailed me the recipe, “Here we go, Mary!” she wrote. “It’s yummmmmy!!!!!”
Vegetarian Chopped Liver
Ingredients:
1 slice pumpernickel bread
1 15 oz. can Le Sueur peas, drained
1 hard boiled egg, chopped
1 onion, chopped and sauteed in grapeseed oil
1/2 cup chopped, roasted walnuts
Salt and Pepper, to taste
Preparation:
Throw the bread, peas, and onions in a food processor and pulse into a mixture. Salt and pepper liberally to taste. Scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the egg and walnuts. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the mixture for two to three hours before serving.
In my taste-off, the peas held their own with the livers. Admittedly, because it was “almost, almost as good”, my heart has to belong to healthy.
