Pear and Almond Cream Tart, my French Fridays recipe choice this week.
In early June, while shopping at our local Farmers Market, I spotted my friend, Judy Wrigley, walking towards me. Following the Hi’s, How are yous, she got down to business. “Mary,” she asked, “can you help me bake a paté sucrée? Show me how to do it right?”
Just to be clear, Judy is no slouch in the kitchen. Last December, at a holiday dinner party I attended, she served a Bûche de Noël with Marzipan Mushrooms as a finale to her spectacular homemade meal. However, being of sweet tooth rather than sound mind, I agreed. Whether a caveat or just hedging my bets, I suggested it be a collaboration. We decided to wait until Fall and cooler weather for our pastry project.
As a reminder, a Paté Sucrée Tutorial: “Leave it to the French to create a pastry dough specifically for tarts,” explains Renee Schettler Rossi, editor of Leite’sCulinaria. “Although it isn’t nearly as ridiculous as it may sound when you consider that pastry for a tart must be sufficiently sturdy to support itself—and whatever luscious filling you’ve decided to heap upon it—after the tin has been removed. It took quite a lot of egg yolks and sugar to create a solution, but the result, known as pâté sucrée, was worth it. It’s more tender and chewy than flaky and crispy,”
It’s all about the sweet pastry dough which is easily made in a food processor.
First on the schedule, Judy makes paté sucrée.
Pastry Overload. We made and refrigerated six sweet pastry dough disks
Remembering I had missed the French Fridays week when my colleagues made a Poached Pear and Almond Tart, this would be a perfect make-up opportunity. Judy’s request became reality last Wednesday at 9am when I drove over to her house in Mountain Valley. Earlier in the week we worked out our schedule, timing, necessary ingredients and equipment list.
Because paté sucrée needs to be refrigerated at least 1 or 2 hours, the day before I made three different versions of the sweet pastry dough using recipes from Dorie, Leite’s Culinaria and Bon Appetit. (You can link to each recipe.) I also mixed together Dorie’s knock-em-dead Almond Pastry Cream. (If all else failed, we could take 2 spoons and just devour Dorie’s divine bowl of cream.)
Judy wanted to make a strawberry tart with mascarpone pastry cream. Shortly after I arrived she put together her pastry dough and stuck it in the freezer. Together we had six paté sucrée disks (and, enough pans) for our play day. For fillings we wanted to try almond and mascarpone pastry creams, lemon curd and various jams, all topped with fresh fruit.
After filling the unbaked tart shell with almond cream, I placed sliced canned pears on top.
Carefully.
Strawberry-topped Tart with cooked Mascarpone Cream
We were most satisfied with our beautiful and delicious Pear and Almond Tart. While freshly poached pears are more desirable for this tart, Dorie admits French cooks often use canned.pear halves. Although I tried all three pastry recipes, what worked best for me, the most manageable, was Leite’s Culinaria. Judy preferred the Bon Appetit recipe. Most of my colleagues swear by Dorie’s sweet tart pastry.
So many pans. So much dough.
Some tips from our baking day:
1) Be organized and prepared for disappointments or disasters. We practiced rolling out the dough, over and over, tossing two attempts.
2) For the pear tart, use canned pears. Dorie’s correct, there is little
difference.
3) I would not cook the mascarpone pastry cream as we chose to do. Just fill a pre-baked tart with Dorie’s no-fail Cream Cheese Pastry Cream (or, your favorite mascarpone pastry cream) and top with any fresh fruit.
Dorie’s Cream Cheese Pastry Cream
For the filling:
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
⅓ cup powdered sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla
¾ cup cold heavy cream
Put the room temperature cream cheese in a large bowl and sift the powdered sugar over it. With a sturdy rubber spatula or sturdy whisk, stir everything together. Add the vanilla and continue to stir. In a separate large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the heavy cream until it holds firm peaks. Stir about a quarter of the whipped cream into the cream cheese ( You don’t have to be toooo gentle. This is more about getting the textures of the cream cheese and whipped cream similar to each other.) Gently fold in the rest of the whipped cream in 2 or 3 additions (This time, be ginger, as not to deflate the whipped cream.)
Our favorite. The star of the show.
Although every week I cook virtually with my French Fridays colleagues, this was tartful reality and a successful learning adventure. Why not take your cooking show on the road, sharing your skills, friendship and flour.
This says it all. Gâteau Basque, this week’s FFWD recipe choice, is almost too good to be true.
Odds are you have the ingredients for Gâteau Basque in your kitchen. No need for a grocery run nor special equipment. It’s an effortless preparation. The frosting on this cake (whoops, there is no frosting on this cake) is that in France, there’s even a museum dedicated to it. Hoity-toity. Something to work into the conversation as dessert is served.
This week’s French Friday’s recipe is Gâteau Basque, the traditional dessert of the French Basque region. Although it might look like a torte, galette or monster cookie, the people of this region call it cake. It’s exactly what I needed yesterday to regain my status as super-duper resident of The Gant, the 144-condo complex where I live.
Gâteau Basque, fresh from the oven. Smokey Bear shared his birthday candles with me.
Wednesday, our local Whole Foods Market in El Jebel joined with the Forest Conservancy to celebrate Smokey Bear’s 70th Birthday. Everyone would have the opportunity to see Smokey, take photos and share his birthday cake. Five percent of the WF’s proceeds that day would go to the Conservancy. Our organization hums along on a lean budget so we were psyched. So was Smokey.
When I left The Gant early Wednesday morning I promised everyone at the front office to bring back some of Smokey’s birthday cake. What was I thinking? I returned home Wednesday night only with Smokey’s birthday candles. Not good.
Choose any filling you wish for the Gâteau Basque, even vanilla pastry cream. I used wild Swedish Lingonberries.
Gâteau Basque to the rescue. I poured myself an extra-tall Gin & Tonic (it had been a verrry long day) and put together the batter: flour, baking powder, salt, butter, sugar, brown and white, eggs and vanilla extract. After dividing the dough in half, I rolled out two 8-inch disks. Since the dough is sticky, Dorie suggests placing each disk between wax paper before the roll. Refrigerate, wax paper included, for at least 3 hours. I went to bed so it was an overnight.
The next day I laid one disk in a buttered 8-inch cake pan and dressed it with wild Swedish Lingonberries, leaving 1” inch of dough bare around the border. After moistening the bare ring with water, I put the second disk on top, sealed them together and brushed with an egg glaze before making the crosshatch pattern. Forty-five minutes in a 350 degrees oven-later, you’ve got a museum-quality cake.
Dorie Greenspan’s Gâteau Basque (photo by Dorie Greenspan)
After placing Smokey’s birthday candles on the Gâteau Basque and slicing a teeny-weeny piece for myself, I carried it to the front office. I handed it off to Lucas and heard a muffled whooping and hollering as he carried it to the back room. I understand it was ‘devoured’. Mark, who returned my plate, said, “It’s something you’d expect from a fancy bakery. And you can quote me on that.”
So, I did.
Smokey Bear’s 70th birthday cake made by Whole Foods in their bakery. Note the candles.
I not only maintained my stature at The Gant but can also report on Smokey’s successful celebration. We fattened our depleted coffers by $3,984. What made the day especially great was watching the public respond to the Big Guy. The kids were excited and had a ball but the adults went all silly in the greatest of ways.
According to the Ad Council, 96 percent of the U.S. adult population recognize Smokey Bear and 70 percent are able to recall his tagline without any prompting. Our Smokey posed for hundreds of pictures, had gestures-only conversations, held babies and strolled through WF’s so each employee shift could have photo-ops. It was a Mom-and-Apple Pie day as you can see from these photos.
Donna Chase and I helped Smokey organize this event. Bright-eyed and furry-tailed in the AM. By 6pm, we all had flagged a bit.
What’s more fun than adults being silly. This was Smokey’s first photo op. Note the kids waiting patiently in the back.
The local fire guys are helping Smokey Bear remind everyone, “Only You Can Prevent Forest Fires.”
It’s late. We’re a bit silly ourselves but Donna Grauer never loses her joie de vivre. . Betsy Dunbar not only shopped but also brought us snacks. We all forgot lunch!
French Fridays with Dorie is an international group cooking its way through Dorie Greenspan’s, Around My French Table. If you want to try today’s recipe, go here. To see what my colleagues baked this week, go here.
Paris-Brest, a delicate pastry dessert that was a splashy finish to my Chinese New Year celebratory dinner.
For anyone believing this holiday has come, gone and you missed it, I’m about to make your day. For more than five-thousand years the Chinese people have observed New Years their way. In the simplest of terms, it’s about the moon and our earth’s creatures. Once upon a time Buddha invited all the animals to join him for New Years. Twelve came to his party, resulting in a year being named to honor each one. This year, we’re observing the Horse.
Astrology doesn’t interest me. “What’s your sign?” is a question I can’t answer. I never read horoscopes. Every year a friend buys the current Chinese horoscope book and insists I read the chapter pertaining to me. I am a Monkey. For each of the last three years, the prognosis has been lousy. This year I flat-out refused to read it. “No, no, Mary, it’s good,” she promised. “You’re going to have a great year.”
I read. I saw. I’ll believe it after I live it.
Mussels and Chorizo with Pasta is a delicious and filling main course for any festive celebration.
Admittedly, Mary the Monkey is looking good for the next twelve months. On a scale of 1 to 12, I’d give myself a 9.3. Since Chinese New Year is a two-week affair, I still could honor that Horse, who is hopefully filled with good fortune, with a celebratory meal. I decided to make two recipes my French Friday colleagues had already made. I also baked blueberry-corn muffins and visited the winery-of-the-horse for vino. If the year ahead is as scrumptious as the dinner honoring it, I will be one merry monkey.
Blueberry-Corn Muffins added a touch of sweetness to the spicy seafood.
My entrée was Mussels and Chorizo with Pasta. You may think this dish was created by committee but it’s a Basquaise. With a nod to the simplicity of French Basque cuisine, these recipes often include tomatoes and sweet or hot red peppers. This dish includes both.
I bought my mussels at Piers 46 Seafood and already had a spicy pork link in the fridge. Since there’s a limit to the nod I want to give a Basquaise, I cut the diced fire-roasted tomatoes with green chiles by half. Fettuccine, with its slithery journey among the mussels, is the perfect pasta option. The sweetness of the blueberry-corn muffins provided just that tinge of sugar so needed with this spicy seafood dish.
It’s all about the horse, of course. I visited the Wild Horse Winery and picked a Pinot Noir.
If you’ll recall, last week’s FFWD recipe choice was a delicacy of caramelized almonds, pâte à choux and vanilla pastry cream. Knowing I didn’t have the proper equipment and pastry tips in my rental kitchen, I opted to save it until spring. Over the weekend, however, I experienced baker’s remorse. Each of my colleagues’ Paris-Brest write-ups were taste taunts to my stomach.
I used the heart pan to more easily pipe the Pâte à Choux into a shape.
Wasn’t the Year of the Horse worthy of a splashy dessert? Couldn’t this Monkey go the extra mile to cobble together the right stuff? Don’t Doristas always find a path? It took some scrambling but this week I put together my first Paris-Brest. Aside from its heart rather than round shape, I’m guessing it looked and tasted much like a novice’s Paris-Brest should.
Yum.
Here’s the recipe for the Mussels and Chorizo with Pasta. If you’re interested in the Paris-Brest recipe, here it is. If you’d like to see what my colleagues are making this week, go here. For the past three weeks I’ve been focused on Dorie’s recipes that this FFWD group made before I joined. I’ve completed my seafood and fish catch-up and next Friday I’ll be following our regular FFWD recipe schedule.
Happy New Year, readers. Horse or no horse, may we all find goodness and joy in the months ahead.
Gingerbread Baby Cakes, a festive holiday dessert and this week’s Tuesdays with Dorie, Baking with Julia recipe.
Do you love gingerbread? I mean, really, really love gingerbread. The kind that is spicy and pungent but still maintains its softness and moisture? With a darkness in color that Dorie calls “mysterious”? Gingerbread at its most robust? If you’re starting to drool, just a smidge, you are going to love this week’s Tuesdays with Dorie, Baking with Julia recipe, Gingerbread Baby Cakes.
Despite using 1 tablespoon of ground ginger in this gingerbread mixture, the recipe also calls for 2 1/2 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger.
The ingredients in this batter offer the clues to guide us to that delicious end result. Besides flour and dark brown sugar, the dry mixture also includes instant espresso powder, unsweetened cocoa powder, ground ginger, baking powder, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Yes, that’s right, black pepper. (Note: Do not substitute instant coffee for espresso powder.)
A whole lotta finely chopped ginger – that’s why it’s called GINGERbread!
The wet ingredients include eggs and butter, of course, but also 2 1/2 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh ginger and 2 cups of unsulphured molasses.
I haven’t added the 2 cups of unsulphured molasses yet. Hence, the light-colored batter.
Four eggs. Last summer I mixed up a rather complicated bread recipe. Complicated, meaning lots of ingredients. After putting the loaf pan in my oven, I found the three required eggs still nestled safely and unused in a bowl, hidden behind the flour canister on my Mise en Place tray. Since then, the egg shells always sit alone, the last to be tossed, as cracked proof that they’ve completed their job.
Although this makes a stiff batter when mixed together, it pours easily into the small baby cake pans, one 10-inch round pan, or the mini-bundts that I used. I was careful to brush each inside with melted butter and then lightly dust with flour and had no problem with unmolding. However, I added an extra five minutes to the suggested 25 minutes at 350F cooking time.
These little darlings, sprinkled lightly with a dusting of confectionary sugar, are delicious for breakfast or a late afternoon snack. Note the crusty bottom of my mini-bundt gingerbread in the foreground. I filled my molds too high and didn’t leave enough room for the rise.
Although Dorie suggests dressing the gingerbread cake with whipped cream and candied lemon peel, I chose to sprinkle peppermint candy pieces over the lightly whipped cream. A festive touch for the holidays.
A plate filled with holiday goodness (if you love gingerbread).
HAPPY HOLIDAYS. Take three deep breaths. HAPPY HOLIDAYS. Sit down, take a cup of tea-break. HAPPY HOLIDAYS. Call a friend. Take a minute to catch up. HAPPY HOLIDAYS. Yes, you have time to watch Jeopardy. HAPPY HOLIDAYS. You’ll never have a replay of December 2012. So, enjoy. HAPPY HOLIDAYS.
Saturday I received an e-mail from a friend who lost her mother in September. Although her e-mail was upbeat, she did say this about the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday, “It will be a tough holiday for us with Mom gone. I’m already sad and have my moments but know we’ll get through it-the first of many firsts!!”
It’s understandable for her to be sad and, with bombs bursting in international air, East Coast Americans still reeling from hurricane Sandy, and many of our citizens, out-of-work, unable to pay their bills, this will be a rocky holiday season for many.
Sunday morning breakfast with freshly-squeezed orange juice, sliced bananas, a Gingerbread Spice Dutch Baby pancake and the New York Times – how civilized!
I’m mindful this will be a first holiday season for me also. Luckily this Fall has been joyful – my cup overflowing with good fortune, good health, good people and the kindness of strangers. I am grateful. Since there aren’t “Holiday 2012 Do-Over’s,” I’m determined to do my part to make these next six weeks merrily memorable.
Today would have been Michael’s 84th birthday, a joyous celebratory day which always kicked off the holidays for our family. I wanted this day to remain important and be happy so, of course, food needed to be involved.
Over the past few weeks I’ve received five new cookbooks. Gulp! Gulp! Gulp! Wouldn’t this be a perfect day to try a new recipe? How about something from Deb Perelman’s “the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, recipes and wisdom from an obsessive home cook.” ( I’ve been called obsessive a few times myself. Deb and I will get along fine.)
This morning I picked up her book and on page 11, I spied a picture of a Gingerbread Spice Dutch Baby pancake. It’s a golden concoction of rumpled goodness, flavored with winter spices, and simplistic in its ingredients. That picture spoke to me. A delicious breakfast to begin a dicey day. Why not? A perfect choice – magical to make, festive to see, and very tasty.
Process everything but the butter and toppings in your blender before pouring into a butter-coated ovenproof skillet. I used my cast iron skillet. Bake at 400 degrees for 20 minutes.
This bright start to my day was followed by unpacking ornaments (drudgery), a lengthy hike (sunny and warm), and then running to my local theatre to see “Lincoln” (not particularly uplifting but a must-see). To continue my theme of “not particularly uplifting”, I’m now watching Ken Burns‘ documentary, “The Dust Bowl” on PBS. Probably not a great idea but, hey, it’s Ken Burns.
Still,I count this day as very successful, crediting a well-regarded cookbook and its delightfully flavorful rumply, bumpy pancake for providing the jumpstart. Thanks, Deb.
A nutritious but filling breakfast. As Deb says, “The batter is practically austere in its brief ingredient list and in that it contains only a modicum of sugar.”
GINGERBREAD SPICE DUTCH BABY
(slight flavoring and spice adaptions)
Yield: One 9-inch pancake
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 20 minutes
Ingredients
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoon unsulfured molasses*
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon*
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger*
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves*
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg*
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Powdered sugar, for dusting. Serve also with maple syrup or crème fraîche, if desired.
Directions
1.Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the eggs in a blender and blend until smooth and pale in color. Add the brown sugar, molasses, flour, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, salt, and milk and blend until smooth.
2.Melt the butter in a 9-inch ovenproof skillet over high heat, swirling it up the sides to evenly coat the pan. Pour the batter into the skillet and transfer to the oven. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the pancake is puffed up. Remove from the oven, dust with powdered sugar. Serve with maple syrup or crème fraîche, if desired.
(Note: I doubled the amount of molasses and cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg, for additional flavor.)
Before I joined the Doristas, the pastry dough, Pâte à Choux, translated deliciously to éclairs, slender oblong pastries filled with tasty pastry cream and finished with delicious glaze. Then my neighbor, Michelle, an extraordinary chef, expanded my repertoire by helping me make gougères (FFWD, p. 4, 10-01-10), the classic French cheese puff made with the same dough.
Goat-cheese Mini Puffs – These puffs are good slightly warm, at room temperature or even slightly chilled. I served them with Sancerre, a food-friendly, delicate French wine.
This week I was delighted to make another savory cream puff, Goat-Cheese Mini Puffs, which would be a perfect addition for cocktail time. I often have supper with my friends, Cathy and Fred, who live just two blocks and three hungry bears from my Condo. (Yep, our resident bears, who appear after dark, are still trolling for food.) Since I would be leaving Aspen soon, Cathy invited me to break bread with them, giving me a perfect opportunity to share this week’s recipe choice. (Disclaimer: This week’s recipe was supposed to be Top-Secret Chocolate Mousse but I mistakenly made next week’s choice. Perhaps it was a Freudian slip since I will be out of the high-altitude by next week. Can’t imagine making a souffle at 8200′.)
Pâte à Choux dough, a cooked mixture of milk, butter and flour to which eggs are added. Then, once put into puffs, it’s baking time.
I arrived in Colorado five weeks ago not only to celebrate my husband’s life but also to bring closure to the past 26 years. Now, it’s all about the memories. What I didn’t realize was there would have to be decisions made, sooner rather than later, about the path ahead. To be truthful, no one is pushing or prodding me to do anything, it’s me.
The little puffs are oven-ready and will be baked at 375 degrees for 12-15 minutes. I needed the full 15 minutes to get them golden, firm, and puffy.
I always need to have A Plan. Organization is my middle name. Just love Lists. I thrive in a structured environment, with borders and roadmaps. For better or for worse, this is the skill set packed into my DNA toolbox. In fact, I once had a male friend who remarked, “I think I was put on this earth to make you spontaneous.”
Magic Puffs
Not too surprising, that friendship couldn’t last long! There probably is not one spontaneous bone in my body. My recent huffing and puffing about my “Make No Big Decisions for 12 Months” edict, is not going to happen. I knew I wanted to simplify my life. The first question was: What is that? And, the second question: How can I do it? Then, along came Atticus, a five-pound miniature schnauzer.
The filling, a mixture of herbed goat cheese, cream cheese and heavy cream is absolutely scrumptious. (tasty on Triscuits, too)
When I first got to Aspen, my friend, Jane, stopped by with a book, “Following Atticus, 48 high peaks, one little dog, and an entraordinary friendship.” “When you have time,” she said, “read this.”
Last week-end I finally did just that. “Following Atticus” is ultimately a story of transformation. It’s written by Tom Ryan, who, ironically, is a journalist also. By the time I finished it, my questions had been answered. I had a blueprint for the future. And, somehow, I would find the energy to bring it to fruition.
Next week I leave Aspen to return to Nevada for the winter………..with A Plan.
“The good of going into the mountains is that Life is reconsidered.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson
To see how my colleagues who made the right recipe this week fared, go to our FFWD site.
