Let’s take Time Out to praise our food supply chains, paying homage to those who grow, harvest, haul to market, manufacture and sell the stuff that keeps our bellies full.
Iowa Maid-Rites are delicious loose meat sandwiches with a cult following.
Leading that charge right now is the renown Chef José Andrés. He founded World Central Kitchen in 2010 to meet Haiti’s food emergency following its devastating earthquake. He quickly emerged as a worldwide leader in disaster relief efforts but it was in the wake of Puerto Rico’s 2017 Hurricane Maria that he turned miracle worker. In the first month following that hurricane, WCK cooked 2 million meals for our hungry fellow Americans. Last year he dished out food during 13 worldwide disasters. This year, with the Pandemic, it seems he and WCK, an NGO, are feeding the world.
Chef Andres, Washington Post photo
Time Magazine photo
The global hunger crisis is real, 821 million people, 1 in 9, are undernourished. Yesterday morning I saw that an Arizona friend had posted her e-mail address on her Facebook page and written that ‘if someone isn’t working and needs food, please email me. Confidential. No need to be embarrassed. I will never say a thing. Just tell me and I’ll drop off groceries to you.’
There are no words but a surprising recognition that generosity knows no bounds. We’ll follow her story here in my next post.
Decadent Lemon Bundt Cake
CHAIN E-MAILS
I received an e-mail and another and another and another all with the same message: “Going back to old times with a recipe exchange. Please send a recipe, quick, easy and without rare ingredients, to the person whose name is in position #1.”
I groaned, four times. No recipes popped into my mind.
This pair of Osprey recently arrived in Aspen from their wintering grounds in South America. They are setting up housekeeping on a new platform just built in Aspen. Yes, their house looks, well, messy but they just moved in.
My last invitation was from my friend Francine. I replied that I couldn’t accept her #QuarantineCooking recipe exchange invitation because I already had received three others. “I know what you mean,” she said, kindly. “I already received four myself but I thought it was nice to be asked.”
Now I felt guilty. I was turning down “nice,” wasn’t I?
“Okay,” I decided. “Game on.”
I chose two simple but nostalgic favorites, Iowa’s famous Maid-Rites, a divine loose meat sandwich that no Hawkeye believes wasn’t heaven-sent. And a Decadent Lemon Bundt Cake that doesn’t, ahem, taste like it’s from a boxed cake mix. As you may recall, I bought 6 boxed mixes just before sheltering-in-place. I don’t do mixes but this lemon-colored beauty reminds me I should. The recipes are both below. Make them. Let me know.
Townsend’s Solitaire
MAID-RITES, adapted from a number of Iowans Servings 4 -6
I can promise you everyone pictured in this photo still makes Maid-Rites. Since the Pandemic people are posting high school photos on their Facebook sites. Happier and less complicated times. My pictures are neatly packed in boxes in my storage unit so I can’t get at them.
(In 1926 a Muscatine, Iowa restauranteur named Fred Angell created Maid-Rites. Although its popularity blossomed into many Maid-Rite franchises which have now disappeared, the sandwich remains a local cult favorite.)
INGREDIENTS: 1 teaspoon olive oil 1/2 large yellow onion minced or 1 small 1 pound lean ground beef 1 cup beef broth 4 Tablespoons prepared yellow mustard 2 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 Tablespoon Soy Sauce 1/2-1 teaspoon teaspoon Kosher salt 1/8 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
DIRECTIONS:
Heat olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. Add minced yellow onion and cook until tender and translucent, 3-5 minutes.
Add lean ground beef and break up into small pieces/crumbles while it cooks. Drain any oil remaining..Stir in beef broth. Add mustard, Worcestershire, Soy Sauce, salt and pepper.
Cook over medium heat for 15 minutes, or until liquid is mostly gone.
Spoon onto (warmed) bun. ALWAYS stick in one or two hamburger pickles. Serve.
Pass ketchup if desired.
Northern Flicker
DECADENT LEMON BUNDT CAKE from Liz Berg, That Skinny Chick Can Bake
(My food blogging colleague and friend Liz Berg who embellished this boxed cake mix, blogs at That Skinny Chick Can Bake. Liz was born and raised in Ames, Iowa. So in sticking with the Iowa theme for my chain e-mail recipes, enjoy.
Serves: 12
INGREDIENTS: CAKE: 1 box yellow or butter cake mix (15.25 ounce) 1 small box instant lemon pudding mix (3.4 ounces) OR 1 box of Duncan Hines Moist Deluxe Lemon Supreme Cake Mix 1 small box instant lemon or vanilla instant pudding mix 3/4 cup water 3/4 cup vegetable oil 4 large eggs (room temperature)
GLAZE: 1 cup powdered sugar, SIFTED 2 tablespoons butter, melted 1/3 cup frozen orange juice concentrate, DEFROSTED
Preheat oven to 350º. Butter and flour a standard 10-cup Bundt pan (or spray with Baker’s Joy). Set aside.
Combine all cake ingredients in a bowl and beat until thick and smooth, about 3 minutes.
Pour into the prepared pan. Bake 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean.
When cake is almost finished baking, whisk together glaze ingredients until smooth.
When cake is removed from the oven, let cool for about 10 minutes. Then poke some holes over the bottom surface of the cake with a long pronged fork. Drizzle part of the glaze over the cake. Invert cake onto a cake plate. Poke the top surface of the cake with the fork and drizzle the rest of the glaze over the cake.
Let cool completely before serving. Lightly sprinkle confectionary sugar if desired. TIPS: ¼ cup of rum can be substituted for ¼ cup of the water if you’d like a lemon rum cake.
The American Dipper lives and thrives near our mountain streams. Look carefully to spot him.
Readers,I hope that you, your family, loved ones and friends are safe and sheltering-in-place as able. And, to all those “essentials,” including my son-in-law, who are out on the front lines keeping our country going, be extra careful, thank you and bless your hearts.Mary
During a recent 7am marketing trip, I unloaded groceries at my favorite clerk’s checkout counter. As my items, including Rhodes Anytime Cinnamon Rolls,M&M’s and black licorice, rolled along, Lisa gave me a glance. Those definitely weren’t usual purchases.
“I’m going to make Cinna-Bunnies,” I said rather sheepishly. “For my granddaughters. I always made Bunny cakes at Easter for my girls.”
“Ohhhhh,” Lisa remarked. That explained everything.
I failed to admit that my granddaughters, who are 16 and 18 live in California, 840 miles away.
We always had a Leg of Lamb for Easter dinner. This pretty piece of meat is halfway through the roasting process. I roasted the lamb to 135 degrees F.
Although I flew to the States from Paris three weeks ago, (story to follow) I only moved into my Gant condo last week. I had no food/staples in the condo so I spent this past week shopping early (7am) and often. I’m good with rations until June 30, could survive until August 1st and would be severely dieting after that!
Grocery shopping, I love it. However, these trips in anticipation of sheltering-in-place were different, task-driven and a bit wacky. For example I bought six cakes mixes. I don’t even make box cakes! After spotting Mrs. Richardson’s Caramel dessert sauce, Michael’s favorite ice cream topping, into the cart it went. I didn’t find Fritos, a comfort food, until my third try. I was beyond mildly perturbed that I had to settle for Keebler Graham Crackers rather than Nabisco, my other comfort food. And no Heinz Catchup, only Hunt’s. Now, Mary, seriously?
Lamb with sauce, Green beans, Roasted Small Potatoes and a delicious Lemon onion and garlic relish. (Recipe below.)
FROM PARIS to ASPEN, HOME AGAIN
My Melissa called me in Paris Thursday morning, March 12, at 5am to tell me about the president’s flight ban. I realized I couldn’t possibly navigate the bedlam at Charles De Gaulle airport to exchange my April 1 ticket and beat his deadline.
However, the next day, my Aspen friend Cathy O’Connell was very emphatic about my coming home ASAP. So on Saturday I planned to go to CDG and exchange my ticket. “If you go to the airport, Mom,” Melissa said, “take your bag.”
I packed Friday night and ordered an airport car for 5:30am. That evening Cathy called again, saying there were seats available on flights to Colorado.The next morning while on my way to the airport, Cathy called again with flight numbers. She stayed with me on the phone until I got to the counter, talked to the agent and exchanged my ticket for home. Two hours later I boarded a jam-packed airplane.
I made a Last-of the-Bunch Banana Bundt to celebrate a birthday virtually. (Recipe below.)
My seat mate for the 91/2 hour flight to Chicago was a student spending a semester in France. She cried all the way home. After the flight landed, 5 CDC, FBI, and Chicago police officers boarded to take a sick young man off first.
But it was the 3-31/2 hours waiting in line at Security that was a nightmare. Over 1,000 people at a time, arriving in waves from international flights, lined up throughout the day for two interviews and temperatures checks. Many missed connections. I made my Chicago-Aspen flight only because the incoming plane was several hours late. We reached Aspen 15 minutes before curfew. During that flight Gov. Polis shut down Colorado’s ski resorts. On the next day, Sunday, President Macron shut down France.
For the next two weeks at the direction of CDC I self-quarantined, taking my temp twice a day. I lived with a friend who said on the Saturday night I arrived,“You’ll stay here.” (I know, I know, who does that?) I wanted for nothing.
I had three opportunities to catch the virus, in Paris, on the flights and standing for hours with 1,000 travelers in a huge room. That’s the reason for the next two weeks I primarily worried about getting sick and passing it to my friend.
EMOTIONAL ROLLERCOASTER
What I’ve found during ten years of writing this blog is that some of the feelings, challenges and thoughts I experience mirror those of you Reader’s. The difference being I have the ink, ability and willingness to write about it. My return trip to Aspen followed by two weeks in quarantine was traumatic but everything about it has been fortunate, positive and, to be sure, lucky.
Although sheltering-in-place and self-isolating, I still can get outside and into the mountains everyday. Since I’m an early riser, there usually aren’t many others on the trail.
Then Why? after ending well, is it only now I’ve begun struggling to feel hopeful, be happy and keep anxiety at bay? Just like all of you, Life has taken its share of whacks at me over the years but I’ve managed to get myself to the sunny side of the street quite quickly. Right now, I’m a big Fail at that. I do realize I’ve been holding on tight these past few weeks just waiting for shoes to drop. That they didn’t in my world doesn’t mean they haven’t in so many others.
That being said, I’m not accustomed to despair and unhappiness. It’s uncomfortable. I’m working hard to get to better days. But for those of you struggling a bit with all of this, you’re not alone.
To my Jewish friends celebrating Passover, Chag Pesach Sameach. And, to my fellow Christians, have a glorious Easter.
COOK THE BOOK FRIDAYS
ROLLED, STUDDED & HERBED BONELESS LEG OF LAMB by Dorie Greenspan, Everyday Dorie, The Way I Cook
Serves: 4-6
Ready for Roasting
INGREDIENTS:
1 head garlic 1 boneless leg of lamb, 21/2-3 pounds, at room temperature, patted dry 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs such as thyme, rosemary and oregano (Note: I used dried herbs.) 1 lemon Salt and Pepper 1 medium onion, sliced in quarters 1/4 cup white wine 11/4 cups chicken broth
DIRECTIONS:
Center a oven rack and preheat to 450 degrees.
Remove 2 garlic cloves from the head, peel and slice into small slivers. Using a top of a paring knife, pierce the lamb all over and then stud it with the garlic, using the knife to help you push the slivers into the meat.
Separate the remaining cloves, peel and toss them into a Dutch oven.
Mix 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the mined herbs together in a small bowl. Grate the lemon zest over the oil. Season generously with salt and pepper and rub the seasoned oil over the lamb.
Thickly slice the lemon and add to the Dutch oven along with the onions. Pour over the remaining 2 tablespoons and white wine. Season with salt and pepper and stir to mix well.
Center the lamb in the pot.
Roast the lamb for 15 minutes and then cover the pot and lower the temperature to 350 degrees F. Continue to cook until a thermometer inserted into the center of the roast reads 120(rare) or 135(medium-rare). The total cooking time will be between 45-60 minutes.
Remove the roast from the pan, tent with foil and let it rest while you make pan sauce.
Put the Dutch oven over high heat and bring the liquid in it to boil, crushing the garlic cloves as you do for two minutes. Add the broth and lower the heat to simmer for 5 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste and strain the sauce.
Slice the roast to serve and pour a small portion of sauce on the meat or pass the sauce at the table.
When I arrived in Paris last Friday afternoon, I intended to unpack and then have dinner at Au Chai de l’Abbey, a small cafe located across the street. By the time I did get settled and get my technical world up and running, I was not up and running myself. Tired
Au Chai de l’Abbey
Paris, Week #1
The first taste is always the best.
I had a bag of peanuts leftover from my flight. And after rummaging through my purse, found a stale Clif bar, probably left over from last year’s trip here. That, dear Readers, was dinner my first night in Paris. As I recall, Julia had sole meunière, Dover sole browned in a butter sauce, for her first meal. Julia for the Win.
NOTRE DAME
NOTRE DAME Sunday morning I walked over to Notre Dame. It was jarring. She is 850-years old and damaged. On my final day in Paris last year my blogging colleague, Patty Price, suggested after breakfast we stop by the cathedral. It was a cold, misty day and I was running short of time, I asked, “Why?”
Protecting what remains of Notre Dame’s historic structure.
“Because I love going there,” she said. As did I. That was my last and in hindsight very poignant visit to Our Lady of Paris.
The site is protected by a barricade fence. Hanging on the fence is informed signage and detailed photos explaining the April 2019 event and its resulting restoration. Visitors can circle the site to read it. This is not a pleasurable stop for anyone. It’s quiet, sad and disturbing.
Mona and Me
LÉONARDO DE VINCI
While ND was the beginning bookend of my week, the Léonardo De Vinci retrospective at the Louvre was the other far happier one. Celebrating the 500th anniversary of his death, there are 140 of his works on display plus 11 paintings. It took ten years for the powers that be at the Louvre to pull this together. The show ends in 4 days so I was lucky to see it.
The Léonardo De Vinci retrospective was in I. M. Pei’s Pyramid addition at the Louvre.
The CHEESE COURSE
Cher Rockwell, a blogging colleague, suggested when in Paris why not choose cheeses that are not available in the States. Great idea. This week I stopped by Laurent Dubois’ cheese shop which I’ve visited before on cheese & wine tours. Dubois is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France recognized for his skills as a master of cheese. The prestigious MOF is France’s highest honor for a craftsperson. Amélie helped me choose three cheeses, goat, cow and a bleu. A fun project.
Preparing Dinner.
AND, MORE …
Jeanne d’Arc, encouraging everyone to celebrate the upcoming Women’s History Month in the USA and International Women’s Day on March 8.
Feeling Safe.
It is a brisk and windy today (Friday.) It’s actually forecast to be warmer in Aspen. Whoops.
As you’re reading this, I’m in Aspen about to board a flight to Paris. This week I drove back to snowy Colorado, dumped my belongings and grabbed a packed suitcase labeled France. Yep, the gypsy thing. Still living it. Note also, only one suitcase.
Chupe de Quinoa
Before my upcoming journey, here’s a parting gift – a wonderfully delicious soup. It’s a cinch to throw together and takes just 30 minutes to make. Chupe de Quinoa (Peruvian Quinoa and Corn Chowder) is another Christopher Kimball creation. It’s from his Milk Street Tuesday Nights cookbook which won both the James Beard and IACP Awards for best general cookbook in 2019. Great for dinner but save a few cups for lunch the next and next days. All you need to know to pull this off is below.
When I spot Mount Sopris, a twin-summit mountain in the Elk Mountain range located near Carbondale, I know I’m Home.
TO MASK or NOT to MASK
Despite Coronavirus and a 46-day transportation strike (officially ended…maybe), it’s destination Paris for six weeks. While I’m adverse to risk (I purchased the last 3 masks available in Las Vegas), I’ve adjusted to tolerating discomfort.
My Forest Conservancy/USFS Ranger colleagues. During the summer we’re patrolling, maintaining trails , protecting wildlife and assisting tourists who need help, have questions or just want to chat. In the winter it’s time to party.
Leading the life I want, making it happen, often requires stepping outside the comfort zone. To my mind, that’s not dreadful. Of course, I’d prefer lush-and-plush over lean-and-mean. My affordable bed-of-roses is sometimes lumpy. But I’m still blessed with good health. It’s a priceless gift and why I can keep “charging” forward.
Admittedly, aging has forced me to soften the edges of my absurdly independent self. I’ve learned that ‘help is the sunny side of control’ and value even more those who offer it.
I LOVE APPLE
My instructors, Rachel and Sid. Fili was, ahem, working.
If you need to jump start your social life, buy an iPhone 11 Pro Max and pitch a tent at your local Apple store. That’s what I did last month. From the minute their doors open each morning, it’s a frenzied happening. All ages can apply. Gold stars to Fili, Sid and Rachel, the instructors who adopted me as a group project. I took 7 classes to get up to photography speed before my trip. I also bonded with strangers I’ll never see again!
RANGER REUNION
For lunch Donna made Spicy Carrot Soup topped with sauteed spinach from Deborah Madison’s “Vegetable Literacy” cookbook. Our nature study group actually used Madison’s comprehensive and amazing cookbook as a text book to study plant life . Char baked these fantastic cheese wafers. Take two, please.
Hugs are never in short supply when I return home. I actually think the kids at The Gant missed me. “You know, Mrs. Hirsch, when you leave, we starve,” is the best compliment ever.
When I had chores down valley Wednesday, Donna Grauer managed to pull together a luncheon for my Ranger colleagues and other friends who live nearby. Not only was it chance to see them, but also an opportunity to celebrate our friendship and birthdays I miss. Here are more photos from that.
.Donna made two “Very Full Tarts,”a recipe from Yotam Ottolenghi’s Plenty Cookbook that I featured on my blog years ago. .
I will miss Donna’s birthday so her early gift from me was a Barbie doll. Yes! The Barbie National Geographic entomologist doll and play set features a Barbie doll, a tree for field research, a workstation for lab work, 20+ smaller pieces of every imaginable natural thing. It’s the perfect gift for Master Naturalist Grauer.
During WWII, Donna’s father was stationed in Oran, the western region of French Algeria. He brought this gorgeous and very special tablecloth home. WE DID NOT SPILL
For Christmas the McLain’s very talented son, Colin, gave them a painting of an owl. He paints in oils and his series of creatures, including the owl, was inspired by Durer’s woodcuts. I like to give my friends jigsaw puzzles so in keeping with the theme, I gave Char this puzzle for her birthday.
Juicy, fresh fruit is difficult to find here in the wintertime but Dot made this lovely dessert topped with homemade Crème fraîche. Beautiful enough to share..
This Colorado mule deer, who lingered outside by the balcony, was a bit irked that he wasn’t included in the party.
AU REVOIR
Every summer Connie (l) , Wendy (l) and I attend as many music, Aspen Institute and Anderson Ranch events and lectures that we can manage. Wendy and I take Dr. Tom Buesch’s 8-week music class at Colorado Mountain College together. Sharing the same interests makes for great memories.
It’s will be fun to share this journey with you all. Merci mille fois for coming along.
CHUPE de QUINOA (PERUVIAN QUINOA & CORN CHOWDER) by Christopher Kimball excerpted from MILK STREET: TUESDAY NIGHTS
SERVES: 4 (Frozen Corn works and is always a good substitute if fresh corn isn’t available.) INGREDIENTS:
Mise en Place – All the ingredients need for this soup.
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium red onion, finely chopped 1/4 cup ají amarillo paste or 1-2 minced jalapeños 3 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, plus more to taste 8 ounces sweet potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces (1½ cups) 1 1/2 cups corn kernels (fresh or frozen) 3/4 cup quinoa, preferably red, rinsed and drained if necessary 1 1/4 quarts (5 cups) chicken broth (use low-sodium if you wish) 1/3 cup heavy cream 1/3 cup lightly packed fresh mint, chopped 1-2 limes, cut into wedges, to serve
DIRECTIONS:
In a large Dutch oven over medium heat, warm the oil until shimmering.
Stir in the sweet potato, corn, quinoa and broth. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes and quinoa are tender, 16 to 20 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. if needed.
Off heat, stir in the heavy cream.
Ladle into bowls, Sprinkle with mint. Serve with lime wedges and a simple salad of shredded cabbage, sliced avocado and crumbled queso fresco or mixed greens.
Sweet Potatoes
TIPS:
1.Rinse the quinoa to remove the naturally-occurring toxic saponin that gives quinoa its bitter flavor. Be sure to check the packaging first, as some quinoa is sold pre-washed and won’t need to be rinsed.
2. Ají amarillo, an orange-yellow chili with a fruity yet earthy flavor, is ubiquitous in Peruvian cuisine. Ají amarillo paste, sold in jars, is available at well-stocked markets and specialty stores under the Goya brand. If you can’t find it, use 1 or 2 minced jalapeños instead.
This post has it all. And, why not? I was happy writing it. I am even happier to share with you. True, we are bouncing from here to there to everywhere but ending with two fabulous recipes you can pull together this weekend.
PASTA with CABBAGE, WINTER SQUASH and WALNUTS, THIS WEEK’S COOKTHEBOOKFRIDAYS RECIPE CHOICE from DORIE GREENSPAN’s EVERYDAY DORIE, THE WAY I COOK.
SHINY NEW TOYS
Pudding Chômeur is a recipe from Christopher Kimball’s award-winning Milk Street Tuesday Nights cookbook which I recently received. It’s a fabulous bookend to Dorie Greenspan’s Everyday Dorie, The Way I Cook, my CookTheBookFridays group’s latest project. These authors are masters of their trade which translates to 1) Learning, my favorite task; and 2) Cooking-the-Books with Pros.
DESPITE MANY FINE FOOD CHOICES ON THE STRIP, MY FIRST STOP IS ALWAYS ESTIATORIO MILOS IN the COSMOPOLITAN. IT’S GREEK. MY FIRST COURSE WAS SHETLAND ISLAND SALMON TARTARE WITH FRESNO CHILI, SHALLOT AND CILANTRO SERVED WITH A GREEK ROSÉ.
It’s always during these slower winter months that I inject newness into Me. What seem like no-brainers for most are new mountains to climb for me by myself. Think about it, loyal Readers, jumping from a 2008 Lexus to a 2019 Subaru Outback overburden with bells & whistles is no walk in Central Park. My first 4,000-mile road trip has been, well, an experience.
And, just for good measure, why not upgrade from an iPhone 6s to an iPhone 11 Pro Max. More bells, whistles and cameras. If you’ll excuse the shadows and sometimes lame photos this week, I promise to nail down this book while attending 3 in-depth lessons at my local Apple store next week.
YEAR of the RAT
Overwhelming in its extravagant décor and elaborate displays, Chinese New Year 2020 in Las Vegas rivals the Christmas holidays with in-your face splendor. Every year Las Vegas is all in for the longest and most important festival in the Chinese lunar calendar.
Last weekend I spent a day on The Strip to catch an early peek at the decorations before the kickoff celebration on January 25th. In case you’re uninformed, this is the Year of the Rat in the Chinese zodiac cycle. In this City, for now, all rats are gold and Sin City’s Strip is more gorgeous than glitzy.
As far as rats go, however, my heart still belongs to Ratatouille’s Remy.
MERCI, DISNEY PHOTOS
A NATURE LESSON
NOW YOU KNOW WHY THEY CALL IT THE STRIP. BECAUSE IT IS. MY VIEW FROM BLACK MOUNTAIN IN HENDERSON, NEVADA.
What I know for sure is that when hiking on a trail, I step aside for bears, moose and tarantulas. When we lived in Nevada I was always on the alert for snakes and spiders. (According to CNN, snakes, the Chinese krait and the cobra, may be the original source of the newly discovered coronavirus.) Apparently I forgot that hiking rule when I almost stepped on this furry guy last week. We parted as friends and went our separate ways.
THE DESERT TARANTULA HAS the RIGHT OF WAY …..ALWAYS.
PASTA PERFECT & PUDDING CHÔMEUR
Nothing prods a chef to become more creative than being faced with hungry bellies. Whether famine, war, economic depressions or just hard times, the world’s cooks have always dished up what they could with what they had. Egg Drop Soup was actually a popular Depression-era Soup. Irish Soda Bread has been a mainstay since the 1830’s when Baking Soda was invented. Minestrone, Potage and Ribollita are still economical mainstays of the European diet.
Such it is with Pudding Chômeur, a French-Canadian pudding cake enhanced by maple syrup and cream. Originally called Pouding Chômeur, literally translated as unemployment pudding or poor man’s pudding, it’s a sponge-like vanilla cake. Someone suggested this Québécois classic tastes ‘as if you crossed sticky toffee pudding with pancakes and maple syrup.’ What is for certain is if you need a smidgen of sweetness at the end of your meal, this is the dessert to serve. Look below for step-to-step instructions.
Although Dorie Greenspan’s PASTA with CABBAGE, WINTER SQUASH AND WALNUTS was created from her fruitful, talented mind, it is a recipe born from fridge/pantry leftovers. This dish demonstrates how to pull together a recipe, kick it up a notch or two and make something special.
COOK the BOOK FRIDAYS
PASTA with CABBAGE, WINTER SQUASH AND WALNUTS by Dorie Greenspan, Everyday Dorie, The Way I Cook
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS: 1/2 pound winter squash, such as Delicata, Kabocha, acorn or butternut, scrubbed or peeled, as you like 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
DORIE’S SECRET FLAVOR HERE IS CIDER VINEGAR. CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL ALSO USED CV IN HIS RECIPE. WHEN COOKED DOWN PROPERLY TO REDUCE ITS BITE, CV PACKS A PUNCH LEAVING A FRUITY FLAVOR TO ENHANCE TASTE. HERE’S THE CABBAGE , READY TO COOK.
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 pinch fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons honey
1/2 pound linguine or other long pasta
1/4 cup dried cranberries
1/2 pound green cabbage, trimmed, cored and shredded (about 2 lightly packed cups)
1/4 cup walnut pieces, toasted, if you’d like
1 handful freshly grated Parmesan, for sprinkling
DIRECTIONS:
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, cut the squash in half and remove the seeds and strings, discard the seeds and roast.Thinly slice or cut into cubes. You’ll have about 2 lightly packed cups.
Warm 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large high-sided skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. Toss in the squash, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until it is almost tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the vinegar and cook until it is absorbed by the squash — this is quick. Add the honey and stir to coat, then scrape the squash into a bowl and set aside.
Cook the pasta according to package directions. About a minute before the pasta is ready, toss the dried cranberries into the pot. When the pasta is cooked, scoop out 1/4 cup of the cooking water and set aside, then drain the pasta, leaving a little water clinging to the strands.
Return the skillet to medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon of the remaining oil, toss in the cabbage and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, for a minute or two, then add the remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar and cook, stirring, until it is absorbed. Pour in the reserved pasta water and cook for a minute, then add the pasta and cranberries and stir it all around. Mix in the squash and the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Taste for salt and pepper and see if you want to add a bit more oil.
Transfer to a warm bowl or leave the pasta in the skillet to serve, topped with the walnuts and Parmesan. STORING: The dish is really best served as soon as it’s made. If you have leftovers, wrap tightly and put in fridge. Add extra oil, if necessary, when re-heating.
PUDDING CHÔMEUR by Christopher Kimball, Milk Street Tuesday Nights
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS:
6 TBS (3/4 stick) salted butter, softened, plus more for ramekins
1 cup maple syrup
6 TBS heavy cream
2TBS cider vinegar
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 tsp backing powder
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
7 TBS white sugar
1 large egg
Vanilla Ice Cream or Yogurt to serve
DIRECTIONS:
I AM A BROKEN RECORD ABOUT THIS – MISE EN PLACE. BE SURE YOU HAVE ALL THE NECESSARY INGREDIENTS BEFORE STARTING A RECIPE. (AND, YES, THE ICE CREAM GOES BACK IN THE FRIDGE UNTIL READY TO SERVE!)
Heat the oven to 400 degrees with a rack in the center position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Generously butter 4 6-ounce ramekins and place on baking sheet. (Although I used high-rimmed ramekins, the lower-rimmed are much better, I think.)
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, whisk together the maple syrup and cream. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Take off the heat, whisk in vinegar and set aside.
In a medium bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon and salt.
. Using an electric mixer in another medium bowl, beat the 6 Tablespoons of butter and sugar on medium high until light and fluffy, about 2-4 minutes. With the mixer on low, beat in the egg, 1 or 2 minutes. With the mixer running, gradually add the flour mixture and beat until incorporated about 1 minute. The mixture will resemble sticky cookie dough. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Into each prepared ramekin, spoon 2 TBS of the maple mixture. Scoop the dough into the ramekins, dividing it evenly. Spoon another 2 TBS of the maple mixture over each.
Bake until puddings are deep golden brown and bubbling at the edges about 25 minutes. Transfer the ramekins to a wire rack and cool for 10 minutes.
Serve warm, topped with ice cream or yogurt. Pour the remaining maple mixture over the topping as desired.
THE SAUCE, THE FLOUR BOWL AND THE BUTTER BOWL. PUT THE SAUCE ASIDE WHILE YOU BEAT THE TWO OTHER MIXTURES TOGETHER. BE SURE TO PUT THE COOKIE DOUGH-LIKE MIXTURE IN THE FRIDGE FOR 15 MINUTES.
THE 4 RAMEKINS ARE EVENLY FILLED WITH SAUCE AND THEN THE DOUGH BEFORE SLIDING INTO A 400 DEGREE OVEN WHERE THE MAGIC HAPPENS.
This post follows my progress cooking each recipe from Dorie Greenspan’s Everyday Dorie, The Way I Cook along with those participating in the online group CookThe Book Fridays. We do not publish recipes unless they have already been on the Internet. We do encourage you to buy this truly innovative cookbook and, even better, cook along with us. And always remember, these recipes work so if you encounter difficulties, e-mail me at [email protected] We’ll figure it out.
What’s a good thing to do after walking into the house, leaving your frenetic day at the doorstep? One answer could be go directly to the kitchen, fill the pasta pot with salted water and get it boiling. With that one gesture, a mid-week meal for 2, a family, even a crowd, could be on the table in less than 30 minutes. The magic here is by quickly throwing together one or two more quick homemade meals each week you’ll drop a pound or two just by less pre-supper snacking/drinking and no bread basket. (Drat it, those calories do count.)
Throughout January in France bakers make the Galette des Rois, celebrating Epiphany, the day the Three Kings (les rois) visited the infant Jesus. Like the Mardi Gras King’s cake that most of us recognize, this cake always has a trinket hidden inside. If you aren’t ready for a sugar rush, take a small piece. A very rich frangipani filling is sandwiched between two circles of puff pastry.
Our CooktheBookFriday’s recipe choice this week is a fabulous PASTA with SHRIMP, SQUASH, LEMON and HERB bundle. It’s effortless, versatile and so, so lemony. Using all the same ingredients, in a flash you can mix together an Arugula Salad. Time to ring the dinner bell. NOW is the time to pour the wine, silence the cell phone and start the conversation.
Just mixing together the Pasta with Shrimp, Squash, Lemon and Herbs before transferring to its serving bowl.
It’s been a rough week for our world, not a good time to feed our feelings or drink our despair. So, don’t. It doesn’t make me proud to admit my soothing tool-of-choice is binge-watching Netflix’s Hart of Dixie each evening. Lucky for me there are 4 seasons of episodes. To my mind, 2 or 3 shows each night is better than Ambien. My daughter, Melissa, whose whole business revolves around healing Wounded Warriors, people with health issues and young people, texted me yesterday, “I am sending as much positive love energy into the universe as possible.” (She is such a better person than me. Respect.)
Built in 2010, this bridge is named for Pat Tillman, killed by friendly fire during the Afghanistan war, and Mike O’Callaghan, a former governor of Nevada. Spanning the Colorado River, it connects Arizona to Nevada. On New Year’s Day, starting near Boulder City, I hiked the Historic Railroad trail through its covered bridge to Hoover Dam and climbed the stairs to walk over the bridge to cross from Nevada into Arizona. It’s a fun, easy, flat hike, 7 miles round-trip and I do it often when I’m here for the holidays.
I’m especially thinking about our longtime Australian and Puerto Rican blogging colleagues who, beginning with our French Fridays with Dorie group, I’ve known for 10 years. Prayers for you, Gaye, Sanya and Adriana. Mardi, hoping your Mom and family stay safe. While they all are safe now, their countries aren’t.
Called one of the 7 Wonders of the Industrial World, Hoover Dam was built during the Great Depression, between 1931-36. It was built to provide hydroelectric power, supply irrigation for agriculture, and control floods, thus transforming the American West. Whether you’re a dam fan or not, and I am not, the Hoover Dam is a engineering marvel.
During New Year’s week, Dorie Greenspan always bakes her famous World Peace Cookies. Many of us involved in Dorie’s virtual cooking groups have adopted that same habit. To discover the story behind WPC and for the recipe, click here. Dorie sends a holiday letter to her followers also. This year’s letter is kind and thoughtful, mirroring the woman she is. I’m sharing this graph with you:
This plaque is located at the highest point of the walkway over the bridge.
“Every year, as midnight strikes on December 31, I’ve said the same thing: May it never be worse. We’ve had good times and we’ve had very difficult times – as everyone has – but we’ve made it through, and so I usually wish for stability; it’s the baseline I hold on to. But not this year! I want better this year. Not just for our little family, but for every family. I always want peace, but now I want a bigger peace, a broader peace, a peace that includes all of us.” Dorie Greenspan
Amen.
The starting point and a great view of Lake Mead, a recreational opportunity as a result of the Hoover Dam construction.
STEP-by-STEP in PICTURES
Mise en Place (Translation: This is what you need.)
PASTA with SHRIMP, SQUASH, LEMON and HERB BUNDLE by Dorie Greenspan, Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook
Serves: 4
You may serve this hot, cold, or room temperature. I think it’s best hot.
INGREDIENTS: 3 large lemons 1 pound of green and yellow zucchini 1 pound of pasta (Fusilli, Penne or Mini-Rigatoni) 1/2 Cup of Olive Oil 1 pound of large shrimp, peeled and deveined Salt & Pepper Ground Cayenne Pepper 2 Tablespoons Unsalted Butter 2 Tomatoes, cored and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces. 1/2 Cup Chopped Fresh Dill 1/2 Cup Snipped Chives
ARUGULA SALAD: This recipe for a simple Arugula Salad is all over the Internet. It serves 4-6. Whisk together 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, season with teaspoon kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Put a sizable amount of arugula, 4-5 packed cups, into a bowl and, if you wish, shave Parmesan cheese on top. (I love this recipe which is a favorite at Settebello Pizzeria Napoletana in Henderson, Nevada.)
DIRECTIONS:
Zest the lemons, juice them and throw the remaining lemon halves into a large pot of heavily salted water. Bring to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente. When the pasta is cooked, save 1/2 cup of pasta water and set it aside. Drain the pasta. Set aside.
Zest the lemons and set zest aside.
2. Salt, pepper and sprinkle some Cayenne Pepper over the shrimp. Pour 1/4 Cup of olive oil into a skillet turned to medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until pink, about 3-4 minutes. Turn once after 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to a bowl.
After cooking for 1 1/2 minutes I flipped the shrimp. When done, transfer the shrimp to a plate or bowl.
3. Cut the squash into quarters the long way and then cut each piece into 1/4″ wedges. Put squash, seasoned with salt/pepper in the same now-empty skillet, adding oil only if necessary. (I didn’t need to add more oil.) Cook and turn as needed for 4-5minutes. Transfer to the shrimp bowl.
Squash
4. With the same skillet at medium-high, add 2 tablespoons of oil and toss the pasta around until it is coated. Add the shrimp, squash, reserved pasta water, lemon juice and butter. Stir to blend, add salt, pepper and cayenne pepper as needed, and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the chopped tomatoes, including juices if there are any. Turn everything into the serving bowl with the zest, top with herbs, and stir to mix. Serve Immediately.
This post follows my progress cooking each recipe from Dorie Greenspan’s “Everyday Dorie” along with those participating in the online Cookthe BookFridays group. We do not publish recipes unless they are already on the Internet. We do encourage you to buy the book and join in the fun.
