Last Friday morning I boarded the Eurostar in London and 2 hours, 15 minutes later, arrived at Gare du Nord in Paris. I will be here five weeks. This is a take 3-deep-breaths birthday year for me (I have until October to adjust.) and I am determined to make each day a doozie.
When I was in Paris last winter, I lived in the Marais on the Right Bank. It feels medieval, has more pre-revolutionary buildings and streets intact than anywhere in Paris and is in the heart of the Jewish quarters. This year, instead of returning to what I knew, I chose to live on the Rive Gauche (Left Bank) located south of the Seine in the Saint-Germain des Prés neighborhood.
Much of this week has been bumbling my way here and there, soliciting tips and pulling up Google Maps. Besides locating Monoprix, Carrefore and la poste, I’ve also nailed Carton ( best local croissants ), Freddy’s (wine bar, small shareable plates) and the famous Poilâne’s on Cherche-Midi (they still bake bread in their basement oven and sell it in their upstairs boulangerie). On Sunday I walked to Marché Raspail, an organic 150-stall open market which is the largest in France and then stopped by Henri Le Roux’s, the renown chocolatier/caramelier whose shop is below my flat.
I visited the remarkable Musée de Cluny, the National Museum of the Middle Ages, on the last day of its Magical Unicorn exhibition. This 15th Century Hôtel de Cluny mansion, is surrounded by a sprawling Roman bathhouse dating from the Gallo-Roman period. Its famous collection includes the “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestries, c.1500, thus the retrospective on the mystical horned-critter. Yesterday I paid respects to Notre Dame but the scaffolding is distractive. Then again, this formidable old lady has stood tall since 1163 when construction began and desperately needs this ongoing restoration work.
SALON INTERNATIONAL de l’AGRICULTURE
For some fifty years this ten-day Salon has been the annual meeting & event site for the key players of the agricultural world. It is my good fortune to be in Paris now and, even better, to attend it with my friends, cookbook author Dorie Greenspan and her husband, Michael, as well as Jane Bertch, who founded La Cuisine Paris, a cooking school/food tour company. I’ve booked her 5-star food tours in the past and will be taking my first LCP cooking class next week (macarons). What better group to tag with than these three foodies.
How to explain this gigantic event…put the Iowa State Fair together with the Aspen Food & Wine Festival on steroids and take that times ten. Or, better yet, just have a look at my photos. Please know we started sampling oysters at 11am in the morning and worked our way through cheeses, saucisson (dry sausages), candy, Tarte Flambée, an Alsatian pizza with cheese, bacon, and onions, foie gras sandwiches, Tourteau fromagé (a cheesecake baked at 700 degrees) and a custard flan with French prunes, all washed down with wines and beer. Seriously?
Carton, 6 Rue de Buci, 75006 Paris
Poilâne, 8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris
Freddy’s, 54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
Marché Raspail, Boulevard Raspail, between the streets of Cherche Midi and Rennes, 6th
Maison Le Roux Chocolatier et Caramélier, 1 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006
COOKtheBOOKFRIDAYS
Our recipe choice this week, David Lebovitz’s LEEKS with MUSTARD-BACON VINAIGRETTE, is too tasty to miss. Please try it. Since my kitchen here in Paris is adequate, I get to cook every week. Next week is POTATO TOURTE from Dorie Greenspan’s Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook.
If any of you try David’s recipe, tell me if you liked it, will make it again and send me photos to use in my blog. Any problems? Let me know also.
LEEKS with MUSTARD-BACON VINAIGRETTE by David Lebovitz, My Paris Kitchen
5 large or 10 small leeks, cleaned but not sliced down the middle
2 eggs (hard-boiled) (I only used one.)
DIRECTIONS:
1.Cook the bacon over medium heat in a skillet until nearly crisp. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel to drain. When cool, chop the bacon into pieces about the size of tiny peas.
2. Whisk together the vinegar, mustard, and salt. Whisk in the oils, 1 tablespoon at a time (the sauce may emulsify, which is fine), then stir in 1 tablespoon of the parsley and two-thirds of the bacon. Set aside.
3. To prepare the leeks, fill a large pot fitted with a steamer with a couple of inches of water. Bring it to a boil over high heat and add the leeks. Cook the leeks until tender meaning when you poke them with a sharp paring knife, it should meet no resistance at the root ends. (Smaller leeks will take about 15 minutes, and larger ones will take about 30 minutes.)
4. Remove the leeks and let drain and cool on a plate lined with paper towels. Cut the leeks and half them crosswise and arrange on a serving platter alternating them head to tail.
5. Peel and dice the hard-cooked egg(s) and scatter them over the leeks.
6. Pour the vinaigrette over the leeks/egg(s). Use a fork or move the platter so that the dressing coats the leeks as thoroughly possible. Scatter the remaining bacon pieces and parsley on the top.
7. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
COOKtheBOOKFRIDAYS is an international group of food bloggers cooking it’s way through David Lebovitz’s My Paris Kitchen cookbook (almost completed) and Dorie Greenspan’s Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook (our journey is just beginning). If you wish to join us every week or occasionally go to https://cookthebookfridays.wordpress.com/ Or, contact me.
My bags are packed. I’m ready to go. Groucho Marx once claimed he was leaving the city because the weather was too good. “I hate London when it’s not raining.”
Well, Mr. Marx, Mother Nature threw everything at me – wind, rain, cold and, now, sun. This past week 96 camellias popped open on a nearby bush in my front yard. I’m leaving this Chelsea flat rental with my treasure bank stuffed with joyful memories.
When I crossed the Pond before with Michael our focus was on all things Winston and Windsor. Military and monarchy. We dropped too many American dollars at flea markets/antique shops and always left London smiling. This time it was about museums, galleries, theatre and tea time. Although I’m prone to attack each day as if it were my last, I still came up short!
TEA
Melissa joined me for a week. She wish-listed, I organized and we concocted a killer itinerary. As a tea drinker, she first picked a Masterclass Tea Experience offered by Twining’s. Although I’m an 8-mugs-a-day coffee addict and know nothing about T-E-A, I booked it.
Julia, our instructor, shared tea’s historical story, followed by a tasting session. Melissa and Julia bonded over, well, everything. I found its history fascinating. Here’s the short form: 1) Discovered in China in 2737 BC; 2) Introduced to England by their Portuguese Queen and wife of Charles II in the 1660s; 3) Tea quickly became the national beverage; 4) Today Brits drink 165 million cups of tea a day (60.2 billion annually) as opposed to 7 million cups of coffee.
During WW I, tea was scarce, a morale catastrophe for the English. With WW II approaching and lesson learned, Churchill stockpiled tea. By 1942 the British government had purchased the world’s entire supply of black tea. During the war, Julia told us, there was always enough tea for the soldiers, hospitals and Red Cross workers, a definite morale booster.
“There were three things during the War we evacuated to the countryside for safe keeping,” Julia said. “First, the tea. Secondly, our priceless museum objects. And, third, the children. In that order.”
THEATRE
Few cities can rival London productions and the venues where they’re produced. I saw five. Our bookends were The Mousetrap, the classic Agatha Christie mystery that’s run continuously in London’s West End since 1952. Totally English crowd. Doesn’t get better than that!
Everybody’s Talking About Jamie This award-winning musical was inspired by the 2011 BBC documentary, “Jamie: Drag Queen at 16, ” about a Sheffield boy who was non-binary. We all recognize being ostracized and bullied. This play was a magical lesson in acceptance. The audience, primarily English, was filled with teenagers and lots of families. Loved this experience.
Also, Hamilton. Hooray to the Brits for laughing and clapping at the portrayal of George III, the play’s royal funnyman. In addition, The Book of Mormon and Tina, the Tina Turner Musical, coming to Broadway next fall.
MUSEUMS and GALLERIES
I visited parts of 6 museums: the two Tates, Britain and Modern; the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery, Victoria & Albert and Sir John Sloane’s. The historic house, museum and library of Sloane, a renown 19th-century classical architect, is filled with his exceptional collection of art, sculptures, furniture and artifacts.
Since these museums are overwhelming, some thoughts, especially if you are alone: 1) Take advantage of the docent talks/tours offered. I joined many but a V&A architectural tour was especially fantastic. Prince Albert reigns! 2) Does the museum have a special restaurant? Make it your lunch stop. Surprisingly fun. 3) If there’s a highlighted exhibition, see it. At the V&A we saw the Christian Dior retrospective, the biggest Dior show ever staged in the UK and one of a string of exhibitions around the world that reveal Dior’s extraordinary popularity.
“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” – Gustav Flaubert
Last week, just as the Polar Vortex had powered up to “don’t even think of flying into Chicago’s O’Hare Airport,” I was scheduled to fly to London. In an attempt to assure I would fly the friendly skies, United Airlines had changed my Aspen-Chicago departure flight time twice. While it may have seemed wacky to arrive at Aspen’s airport at 8am for my now 1pm flight, that’s what I did.
EVELIA PUPO CASTILLO
If the early bird catches the worm, I wanted to be that birdie. Although no one was checking in for flights yet, Agent Evelia Castillo was on duty. I approached the desk and asked if I had a shot at getting out today. She looked at my ticket and grimaced.
Without a word Agent Castillo began doing that computer clicking-and-clacking that airline agents do, before saying, “Let’s see if we can do better.”
In less than 45 minutes she had me on Aspen-Houston – London (direct) flights. I arrived in London ten hours earlier than originally scheduled. What Evelia doesn’t know is that having been in a plane crash involving snow, I don’t fly easily on sunny days. In bad weather, fearfully anxious, I drink. (Gracias, Ms. Evelia.)
SAFELY ACROSS the POND
My first week here, as the Brits say, has been “brilliant.”
Most international flights converge on Heathrow around 6-7am. Who planned that? The customs queue, an hour long, was diverse, orderly and subdued. (“Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.”) Not noisy America, for sure.
For me, this city means theatre. Only in London could I see Tina, the Tina Turner musical which premiered here in March 2018 at the Aldwych Theatre. Built in 1907 in the Edwardian Baroque-style, the Aldwych is three-tiered and holds 1,200 people. Sold out, always. “Tina” arrives in New York in Fall, 2019.
Because I’ve never seen 9-Tony awards-winning The Book of Mormon, today, I did. Playing in the Prince of Wales Theatre, seating 1,100 people, it was unexpectedly outrageous and hilarious. This theatre’s claim to fame is its ample supply of women’s bathrooms. No waiting in line, Ladies. Boom!
Tate Britain, often overshadowed by Tate Modern, is amazing. On Monday I re-visited my old English friends, landscape painter J.M.W. Turner and sculptor Henry Moore. According to my guide, Peter Scott, there are 37,000 Turner items entrusted to Tate Britain’s care. Since I’d never eaten in its famous Rex Whistler Restaurant, I righted that wrong. Monserrat, the manager and my waitress, treated me to the ultimate Whistler (that British Whistler without the Mother) experience.
In searching for the quintessential English pub, I settled on The Salisbury, named after Queen Victoria’s favorite prime minister. With its original cut glass and hand-carved mahogany splendor, it’s a fine example of a late-Victorian pub.
So happy that I had time to make Sweet Chili Chicken Thighs, this week’s CooktheBookFridays recipe choice before leaving Aspen. Dorie explains this recipe as ‘ a simple sauté-then-braise affair emboldened by a chili/soy mixture.’ The combination of Thai sweet chili sauce, soy sauce, Dijon mustard and Sriracha kick plain Jane chicken thighs up a few notches.
FRENCH FRIDAYS, EVERYDAY DORIE
If you’re inspired, I’ll be happy to send the recipe. What I like best about Dorie’s newest cookbook is her introduction of intriguing ingredients/combinations that she’s picked up from her recent travels and food experiences. She’s almost a “new” Dorie but in the finest sense. And, Readers, no one writes a clearer recipe or explains the process better than Dorie. She’s a Pro.
Someone with more insight than I insists the best tools for getting to Happy are 1) Sunlight; 2) Rest; 3) Exercise; 4) Diet; 5) Self-Confidence; and 6) Healthy Relationships.
None are budget-busters. The first is free. The rest we can control and manage ourselves. The effort we commit to each is by choice.
Last week I drove to Aspen after spending the best 2-month holiday season ever with my Bishop family and friends in Henderson/Las Vegas where Michael and I last lived. This was a quiet time when I could re-evaluate the Life I lead. Realizing there are no more 10 or 5-years plans in my future, I’m pretty ruthless about my year-to-year scorecard.
Which brings me to #6 in the tool chest above, Fostering HealthyRelationships. By necessity as a Caregiver needing to stay healthy, I already had nailed #1-4. Number 5 is still sometimes wobbly. But I believe #6, is the best pathway to Happy.
Relationships and friendships come in all sizes. Each needs nourishment. Of course, being all about Lists, I have one to share with you. Here’s hoping you’re okay with that. My work in progress….
FAMILY: When returning to Aspen in 2013 my only hesitancy was being 850 miles from my granddaughters. I wailed at the thought. Melissa’s family was the reason we moved to Las Vegas. We saw each other often. Missy kept saying, “We’ll figure it out, Mom. We will.” And, as always, she did. For the past four years Clara and Emma have each written me weekly e-mails. Mom’s rules were “3 paragraphs, 3 different subjects.” At first there were nudges, bribes and ‘not until you e-mail Grandma’ threats. No more. Besides long and lengthy e-mails, they also text, call and send videos. In turn, I write weekly e-mails to each girl. While I only see them 2 or 3 times each year, I am in the middle of their lives.
PERSONAL FRIENDS: Old or new, near or far, I value my friends. I’m too busy to be a constant buddy but I work hard to nurture friendships. If you’re my friend, you know it. What I’ve become less tolerable about in friends are complainers, whiners and victims. Life isn’t always fair but I know I am very fortunate. My personal social landscape beginning with loyal grade school besties up to recently-made friends tend to also be people who realize and are grateful for the good lives we’re privileged to lead.
CONSEQUENTIAL STRANGERS are those countless everyday people who touch our lives often and influence us personally. Where would my life be without my Gant family enabling me to “live the dream” as Wesy, our Concierge often says. “Mrs. Hirsch, you are living the dream.” And while I am so fond of that crew, respect and admire them, I recognize there is a Homeowner/ Employee relationship we must observe. Sometimes I forget.
WEAK TIES are acquaintances or not, who can be surprisingly powerful in influencing us. All the food bloggers I’ve followed the past 8 years are Weak Ties. However, the French Fridays with Dorie group (Dorista’s) grew into personal friends through meet-ups, visits and weekly blog posts.
The revolving door of impressive speakers/programs at the Aspen Institute, Music Festival and the like are Weak Ties who profoundly influence me on a daily basis. During the late Eighties while attending a small seminar I listened as Justice Harry Blackmun explained how Roe v. Wade happened. Since that initial magic moment I’ve experienced fleeting but impressionable encounters with the famous and accomplished like YoYo Ma, Renee Fleming, RBG, Congressman John Lewis, former SOS Madeline Albright and the Unknown, like those 300 Opportunity Youth Forum leaders who gathered at the Institute last fall.
FACELESS WONDERS are thousands of taken-for-granted people we don’t even know who make our daily lives tick-tock and function. Think 800,000 federal workers victimized by the recent Shutdown. Or, for me personally, a 30-second encounter with 300 firefighters while handing off dinner to them at the Salvation Army Food Truck in El Jebel last summer.
The upshot? This is the first time I’ve categorized my friendships. I’m realizing, like it or not, we’re plugged into something larger than our own tiny worlds and that’s a good thing.
EVERYDAY DORIE, The Way I Cook, by Dorie Greenspan
With apologies to Dorie Greenspan, I re-titled this week’s CooktheBookFridays recipe choice. It’s called Potato Chowder Lots of Ways. I’ve chosen to re-name it A Chowder for All Seasons. This soup is worthy of the name.
Here’s Why? A chowder is a rich, chunky soup traditionally made with onions, potatoes, and cream. We’re probably most familiar with seafood, corn or clam chowder. Although there are countless variations, tomato-based Manhattan Clam Chowder, color red, is the odd guy. In this recipe, Dorie takes basic potato chowder and shows us how to make imaginative changes to compliment each season. One recipe. Four versions.
Palate pleasing comfort food. It’s simply put together with chicken or vegetable broth, leeks, onion, shallots, garlic and yellow potatoes. Frozen peas were a tasty add-on and added color. Perfect for cold temps at this time of year. We are not able to share this chowder recipe. If you do want to make it, contact me and I’ll gladly share the recipe.
EATALYLASVEGAS PICTURE BOOK
Ciao Las Vegas
There are 37Eatalysscattered throughout the world. Las Vegas just became numero sei in the United States. The newly-opened EatalyLasVegasclaims to be the largest ‘Italian marketplace with restaurants in the world.’ It’s 40,000 square feet footprint just opened in the Strips’ newest shiny object, Park MGM mega-resort hotel and casino on the Las Vegas Strip.
This week I visitedEataly with friends Ardyth and Harold Sohn. I’ve got pictures.
OUR FIRST ENCOUNTER: We walked into Eataly and spotted the popular dancing mosaic bull copied from the Turin coat of arms. The original mosaic is located in the famed Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. The oldest shopping mall in the world, it was constructed when America was fighting its Civil War. It’s believed that “Lucky Bull” brings you good fortune by standing on it and circling three times. Deciding to ‘Swing Big or Go Home,’ I powered up and swung strong.
IT’S ABOUT THE FOOD: We sprinted through our initial walking tour overview because who doesn’t become ravenously hungry by 11:30am? We divided to conquer and later found a table for our chosen meals. Ardyth chose a cold pizza served on ciabatta bread from La Pizza & La Pasta. Street Food appealed to me, arancini and fritto misto de pesche. Harold chose to stop at La Pescheria and hand-picked his Branzino, a European Bass, to be grilled. All quite delicious.
FOOD, PART II: After lunch the Sohn’s shopped while I continued to explore the eating opportunities. I stopped by IlGelato (aka the Nutella Bar) for a don’t-miss-it pistachio cannoli. This popular bar offers crepes, cookies and croissants, some smothered with the hazelnut-chocolate spread. (Do you realize you can now buy a whopping seven-pound bucket of Nutella at Costco for about $22.) I finished up my all-things-Italian spree at CaffeLavazza with Bicerin, a specialty coffee drink from Turin of liquid chocolate, espresso and whipped cream.
It’s a new year, a fresh beginning and it’s going to be noisy. With 7.5 billion people hanging out on Planet Earth, why are we surprised? Here’s a thought. Let’s bring joy and wonder into each day, making it sparkle. Let’s laugh louder and more often. Let’s try on Happiness until it fits. What we know for sure is Life’s overwhelming, difficult and sometimes sad. Let’s face it, our tank’s gotta be full to be grownups!
Every January I rethink this blog. Another year: Go or No. This began as a vehicle for me to re-build a life. Whether single by choice, divorce or death, I realized many others were making that same journey. Call it brazen or desperate, I decided it might be helpful to them and for me to tell my story, wins, fails and draws. The stars were aligned when I stumbled onto the French Fridays with Dorie group and began blogging. That was February, 2011.
Although I’ve put together a Lifestyle that is mine, it’s quite another to live it successfully. That’s true for all of us, male/female, single /married. What I know for sure is every aspect of Life is knowing ‘when to hold ‘em, fold ‘em, walk away or run.’* Writing this blog with all it entails has become part of who I am. Thanks to all of you for making that so. Let’s muddle through another year together. OK?
YEAR 2019 – MAKE IT WORK FOR YOU
One way to win the resolutions game every year is to not make any ….. which I don’t. My only 2018 goals were to Read More (#ilovetoread), to Learn Something Everyday (#learningisfun) and to finish up my Presidential Library visits. (Done.)
During the past 7 single years, despite detours, ups and downs, I found the right stuff to set life right for me. No ideas were original but I needed to find, glean and pull together what worked. The constant I carry with me is to manage and worry about what I can control. Why let your happiness be controlled by something you can’t? I thrive, and always have, on goals, plans and projects. Lists and calendars are my buddies. “She was Organized” will be carved on my tombstone.
It’s never too late to reclaim your time and set up boundaries. At any age your mental health, physical fitness and diet requires attention. Everything you invest into your bank (your body) will reap rewards now and later. Get enough sleep. Trust me on that. Friends and family are golden. Stick with those who support, encourage and lift you up. Here’s a tip. Meet and make friends who are younger than you. While it’s fashionable to bash the Millennials and Gen Z’s, I live with them, work with them and listen to them. I’m the better for it.
We’re gonna do this … for another year.
COOK-THE-BOOK-FRIDAYS
TANGERINE-CHAMPAGNE SORBET by David Lebovitz, My Paris Kitchen
INGREDIENTS:
3 cups fresh tangerine juice from about 4 pounds of tangerines (I used tangerine juice available at Trader Joe’s and other markets.)
⅔ cup granulated sugar
1 cup Champagne, or other sparkling wine
In a large saucepan over low heat, warm ½ cup of the tangerine juice with the sugar, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 ½ cups of tangerine juice. Add the Champagne or sparkling wine. Transfer to another container and chill thoroughly.
Freeze in your ice cream maker about 20 minutes according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Put in another container and place in freezer.
Note: This sorbet will not freeze as hard as other sorbets because of the alcohol in the Champagne. However, it will make it more scoop-able once fully frozen.
*The title of this blogpost includes a Homophone, a type of homonym with words that sounds alike but have different meanings and different spellings.