Cervelle de Canut, created in Lyon when it was the center of a thriving silk industry
(Translation: LYONNAISE GARLIC & HERB CHEESE (aka boursin’s mama))
For the past seven years I’ve been taking leçons françaises. While I don’t speak the language well (really, I’m awful), I do possess an amazing vocabulary, know 13 of the 17 different verb tenses and can understand everything that is asked of me in a boulangerie.
That’s why I knew this week’s recipe involved cooking someone’s brain. Probably a duck. Cervelle means brain. Although duck translates to canard, the French do absurd things with word endings so I just assumed canut, canard, duck. If I thought Sardines Rillettes (April 13, 2012) was a culinary stretch for me, duck brains might be an impossibility.
Quack. Quack. Quack.
photo by greengabbro.net
Imagine my surprise when I realized canut meant silk weaver. Literally, this week’s FFWD recipe: Brain of a Silk Weaver. Pas de panique. Fortunately, there are no brains involved in the creation of this recipe.
Trust me on this.
After spooning the ricotta in the strainer, I placed it over a pan, covered it with plastic wrap, allowing it to drain and rest in the refridgerator overnight.
The next morning, I assembled the ingredients for the cheese spread.
Cervelle de Canut is a soft and creamy herb cheese that is part mix, part spread and part salad dressing. It is said to be the inspiration for the popular Boursin cheese that is easily found in any American grocery store. I was invited to a 70th birthday celebration last week-end and I knew it would be a wonderful addition to the appetizer table. Since it would be my first food contribution to party fare since returning to Aspen, this was a “Dorie, please don’t fail me now” moment.
photo by boursin.gif
The night before the party I spooned ricotta into a fine-mesh strainer, covered it with plastic wrap and refrigerated it overnight. The next morning I put the drained ricotta in a bowl, adding shallots, garlic, chives, parsley and tarragon, salt and pepper. After pouring red wine vinegar and olive oil into the ingredients, I mixed everything together and let it chill in the fridge for the entire day. Just before plating Trader Joe’s Raisin Rosemary Crisps with the cheese spread, I tasted the mix again and felt it needed more salt. Much more. Then it was perfect.
Mix all the ingredients lightly with a rubber spatula. Don’t overbeat the cheese and risk thinning it.
Luckily my food offering stood tall with the other delicious fare including crab won tons, Chinese shrimp-snow pea skewers, spinach-cheese squares, paté mousse and smoked salmon-neufchatel spread in filo cups. Did I mention that all my friends are fantastic cooks? And, there was some mention and mumbling that it appeared ‘Mary had not lost her touch.’
Thanks, Dorie. Soooooooo much. Merci beaucoup.
The Groaning Table
Every bite was well-worth the calories! Happy Birthday, Dear Friend.
Peter’s wife, Ruth, an author and writer, lighting his cake. The birthday boy stands nearby.
Although we urge you to buy Dorie’s inspiring cookbook, Around My French Table, you will find the recipe here. To see the brainy versions created by other Doristas, go here.
Inspiring photos of the process. Delicious result (I personally KNOW)! And thanks from the birthday boy and his spouse for such a wonderfully French creation.
Agree…much better than Boursin especially after getting enough salt added…agree again. I think I’ll add more herbs and minced veges next time…this whole idea is great, I just need more flavor with this herbed cheese. Maybe my taste buds have been fried with this week’s heat. As an appetizer this recipe and what goes with it is a perfect idea. And…I thought of you this week when twice…yes, twice… I spilled my cold drink on my computer. Still working…thankfully, but it’s run out of its 9 lives…it will blow up if I do it again, I’m sure. Always enjoy your stories and your extra thoughts. Have a fun holiday weekend.
What a fabulous table! I think mine needed more seasoning, too~
Looks good – glad you enjoyed!
The cheese needed a little bit `more´.. but you did a good job with that table! So good to hear you´re enjoying your return to Aspen!
Love the photo of the groaning table, it all looks delicious. About the ricotta, I remember Lydia telling us the same thing about the draining, and I did not seem to find
any liquid after straining overnight. Love your story about learning french, I did a class at Adult night school a few years back and had fun. I can’t speak french, but have
a better understanding of words and most times it gets me thru. My parents spoke french at home but only one sister out of six learned anything. Such a shame and a
waste, but back then, things were a little different. Have a great weekend.
Cute post! So glad everyone loved the cheese… I’ll definitely be making it again. 🙂
Sounds (and looks) like a fun party, I love those kinds of gatherings where you can taste contributions from different guests. And that cake!
Groaning table 🙂
Glad to hear that you haven’t lost your touch & that no duck brains were involved.
Have a lovely weekend!
how awesome that it worked out so well for you!! 🙂
What a cool potluck party. You are so funny, Mary. I must have skipped right through the ‘cervelle’ part in the copy of the recipe.
Yes, this one needs a heavy hand with the salt, but then it’s delicious. Your groaning table looks amazing. What a nice celebration. And, I love those TJ Rosemary Raisin crackers. One of my favorites. Best of luck with the French lessons.
Wasn’t that a terrible name? But, what a lovely addition to the table! I love the cake!
Have a wonderful holiday weekend, Mary!
Mary, from the way your post is written I believe I can tell that you are having a wonderful time in Colorado. I think that we often underestimate the importance of having really good friends, the kind of people that we enjoy spending valuable time with. It is so nice to see the photos of all the great dishes that your friends contributed to the birthday party. It all looks wonderful! I have only little “complaint” – now that I have read your post and felt good when reading it, I simply cannot get those plastic duckies out of my head anymore…or the duck brain…love your humour and love that you speak French…
Have a wonderful weekend!
Mary, I was laughing out loud when I read your first paragraph! Your table looks beautiful and so does your spread! So glad you’re having a good time with old friends in your new home! Happy Memorial Day!!
What a delicious menu! Your dip and crackers look so beautiful. I clearly have to check the cheese counters again and see if I can find boursin or fromage blanc. Have a wonderful weekend, Mary. Enjoy that beautiful outdoors in Aspen!
What a great post! I’m afraid my French is non-existent, so the origins of the recipe didn’t bother me so much! I think we were on the same page (I liked the same crackers too!). This was a really nice way to take advantage of all of our fresh herbs. Your party looks great!!!
What a cute post. I don’t speak any French at all, alas. I adore the 70th birthday cake.
Mary, thank you for being so supportive! Second time for both of us, and what a complete difference! We actually went out on our anniversary. A local restaurant was having a 4-course Robert Mondavi winemaker dinner. It was incredible: a beautiful salad with Fume Blanc; Lamb and Roasted Vegetables with Pinot Noir; Filet Mignon and Lobster Mashed Potatoes with Cabernet Sauvignon; and Tiramisu with Moscato! We loved it.
You will love that buttermilk cake – we’ve made it with Lemon. And, we’ve used it as a base for Riesling poached pears. It’s so easy and is dense enough to stand up to sauces.
xoxo
I am soo jealous that you were able to find that cheese!
Great sounding party! And, knowing your way around the boulangerie is the most important part of the French language!
So glad it wasn’t duck brains or something like that! Your spread looks great, glad it was a good addition to the party!
Oh, how I wish I could speak French! Your cheese looks wonderful!